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~ …… (oon∙poh∙dee∙PEH∙peh) Cristina writes about interesting stuff /Cristina scrive di cose interessanti

Un po' di pepe

Category Archives: Italian life

Museo Diocesano, Orsara di Puglia

29 Saturday Aug 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art history, Italia, Italian life, Orsara di Puglia, Photography, Puglia

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Italian history, Museo Diocesano Orsara di Puglia, Orsara di Puglia, Palazzo Varo, Puglia, Southern Italy

museodiocesanoorsaraThe last time I was in the Museo Diocesano di Orsara di Puglia was about 1980. It looks as if hardly anyone else has been there either! The Museo is right around the corner from my casa, and it is not usually open. To visit, you need to ask for the person who has the key.  Last week I was walking by and noticed it was open as there was a photo exhibit in one of the rooms. As I walked up the stone staircase it was like stepping through time.

My accidental selfie

My accidental selfie

The Museo occupies part of the upper floor of the Palazzo Varo, a 16th Century building that was part of the Abbazia dell’Angelo. The famiglia Varo sold the palazzo and it became a convent for the ‘Monache Bianche’ or white nuns. When the sisters moved in the 1960’s it became the Scuola Media until a new school was built. In the 1970’s, some of the rooms became a depository for archeological relics and museum items. The bottom floor was recently remodelled into a very nice meeting/conference area.  The upper floor has a separate entrance and is in an elegant state of decay, to match the artifacts it is housing.museodiocesanocollage2

The collection is actually really impressive and reflects the history of the area.   Most of the artifacts, except the sacred items formerly used in the parish, have been donated, collected and collated by volunteers. The Museo encompasses a time span from Neolithic to mid 20th Century. That’s a really long time! The bronze and selce (flint) tools and utensils, earthenware vessels, lamps, tomb decorations and even fragments of a 10th Century pavimento (mosaic pavement) were dug up by contadini (farmers/peasants) while plowing their fields.

Roman lucerne -oil lamps

Roman lucerne -oil lamps

Ascia e lancie in Bronzo (bronze hatchet and spears)

Ascia e lancie in Bronzo (bronze hatchet and spears)

There are also farm implements, tools, utensils and household items used by local contadini in daily life. The lack of formal organization and cataloguing of the items makes the place so much more interesting. The crumbling, aging plaster walls of the formerly grand Palazzo provide a beautiful, yet ironic backdrop for the crumbling rusted work and field implements used by contadini Orsarese.

Museodiocesanocollage3 copymuseodiocesanosellaThe Museo is definitely worth a visit-you need to ask at the Parish or Comune (Town Hall) for someone to let you in.  Let me know if you need more info on this, and read Benvenuti ad Orsara di Puglia!

A piattaia, called a 'scudular' (scoo.doo.lahr) in Orsarese. I have one just like it, made by a friend of Papà's. My plates are quite a bit newer though!

A piattaia, called a ‘scudular’ (scoo.doo.lahr) in Orsarese. I have one just like it, made by a friend of Papà’s. My plates are quite a bit newer though!

museodiocesano3

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Senz’ acqua

03 Monday Aug 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Inspiration, Italian life, Orsara di Puglia

≈ 17 Comments

This morning I woke up to find out the water was being shut off soon.  Luckily I live in the Centro Storico (historic center) of town, which is downhill, so had time to run around filling up the tub and all sorts of pots and bottles with water.  We will probably only be senz’ acqua (without water) until this evening, or let’s hope so anyways. I was reminded of something I wrote exactly 2 years ago tomorrow, when we senz’ acqua for almost 4 days:

senaacqua1

Senz’ acqua, Agosto 2013

On Friday a truck from the comune (co•MOO•neh) or city hall, went around announcing that at 5pm the water would be turned off.  They didn’t say for how long, but everyone filled up their pails, bottles, and bathtubs anyways, assuming the water would be back on by the next morning.

It turns out there was a ‘guasto’ (GWAH•stoh)-a water main break that was more serious than originally thought.  It was between Troia and Foggia, about 40 minutes away. Now it was starting to sound like we would be senz’ acqua for 2-3 days!

senzacqua2

The next day, the temperature was 38° C.  The population of Orsara was increased by about 1,000 because of families visiting, the Festa del Jazz, people living in Foggia coming for the weekend to escape the heat and the Festa della Madonna della Neve coming up.  I was taking bottles to fill up at one of the fontane (fountains) so we could wash dishes and flush the toilet, when I heard there was an autobotto (water truck) at Ponte Capò.  By the time I got there it had moved to La Benzina (the gas station) and was going to San Rocco.  I was out of breath when I finally managed to find the autobotto and fill up my 3L bottles.  I brought them home and then heard that Acquedotto Pugliese was giving out rations of 4L bags of water.  Mannaggia what a scene it was.  The vecchietta (old lady) in front of me said ‘ma vieni di nuova la Guerra!’, the war has come back again! The man behind me had 10 family members from France staying with him and was trying to get extra.  It started to get kind of ugly, but they ran out of water anyways. We carried out water bags home and arrived ‘in un bagno di acqua’-bathed in sweat.  It was stinking hot and 6L of water gets heavy when you have to carry it up a steep old stone stairway.

senzacqua3

This reminded me of when I used to come to Orsara di Puglia as a child/ teenager.  In an effort to conserve water in the hot summer months, it was only available from 8am until noon, then shut off until the next morning.   Laundry, showers and washing hair all had to be done before noon.  This was a common practice in Southern Italian towns in the 1980’s.  I’m not sure it actually saved any water because every household would fill up their tub and every imaginable jug and container with water before it was shut off.

At 5pm the TV went off, which seemed odd, so I tried the lights and they didn’t work.  I heard someone outside yell ‘Ma no!  Anche la corrente no!’-‘but no! Not the electricity too!’  Mamma and I ran around looking for the flashlight and candles for later. No running water and no power!  The neighbours packed up and went back to Foggia.  Luckily the power was only off for an hour so at least we were only lacking 1 utility.

Water in the tub or from the fountains is used for washing then toilet flushing.  Dishwashing water is also later used to flush the toilet.  Acquedotto Pugliese 4L bags are only for cooking and washing food.  Bottled water is for drinking. It’s amazing the simple things that we take for granted today.  Have you ever thought about how you would manage if you were ‘senz’ acqua’ for 3 days?  In many parts of the world, people still don’t have electricity and running water in their homes.  Take a few minutes and think about how you would survive this ‘medieval camping’ situation.

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Cauzuncill’

19 Friday Dec 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian life, Mangiamo!, Orsara di Puglia

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Calzoncini di ceci, Dolci di Natale, Italian food, Natale, Orsara di Puglia, Pugliese Traditions, vino cotto

cauzuncillI know Natale (Christmas) is around the corner when we make cauzuncill’  (cow•zoon•cheel).  Cauzuncill’ is Orsarese for calzoncini, which means piccoli calzoni or ‘little pants’.

Cauzuncill’ are ‘a forma di mezzaluna’ (half moon shaped) turnovers traditionally filled with mashed ceci (chick peas), vino cotto, mandarin orange and lemon zest, grated chocolate, sugar and of course alcohol. We also made some with ground almonds instead of ceci.  Castagne (chestnuts) are sometimes mixed in with the ceci filling.

Cauzuncill'collage copy

Cauzuncill' Collage3 copyCauzuncill’ are fried and then served drizzled with vino cotto.  Don’t know what vino cotto is?  When making wine, some of the freshly pressed grape juice (mosto) is slowly cooked all day until it is reduced and caramelized.  It’s like a thick wine syrup that is used for desserts, muscitaglia on November 1st, and even drizzled on snow!

Cauzuncill' (cow-zoon-cheel) with almond and vino cotto filling, drizzled with vino cotto

Cauzuncill’ (cow-zoon-cheel) with almond and vino cotto filling, drizzled with vino cotto

Dolci di Natale similar to cauzuncill’ are made in Basilicata and Molise, but the name, fillings and even the pastry change depending on the region.  What kind of dolci di Natale does your family make?

 

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Passata di Pomodoro

01 Monday Sep 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian life, Mangiamo!

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Italian food, Passata di pomodoro, Tomato sauce, Traditional recipes

Passata di pomodoro
Every year my family gets together to make ‘la salsa’, or passata di pomodoro. Everyone participates, even the nipotini. It is a 2 day event and we are all tired today, as we made about 180 litres of salsa/passata! Some of the tomatoes came from our gardens, but most of them were purchased.

Pomodori ready to be washed

Pomodori ready to be washed

Pomodori from the garden

Pomodori from the garden

La pentola per i pomodori-a really big pot to cook the tomatoes!

La pentola per i pomodori-a really big pot to cook the tomatoes!

The ripe pomodori are washed, then cooked in a really big pot until soft. Then they are drained in baskets lined with cloth. If they aren’t drained well, then the passata will be too watery.  To make ‘pomodori pelati’ (peeled tomatoes) instead of passata, the skin is removed by hand and the whole pomodori are put in jars.

Cooked pomodori drained in baskets lined with cloth

Cooked pomodori drained in baskets lined with cloth

Passata refers to ‘passed’ through a sieve, a passapomodoro, or an electric machine to extract the juice and pulp and remove the skin and seeds. Our machine is called a ‘spremipomodori‘(tomato squeezer!). We thought it bit the dust last year, and bought a new one which didn’t work.  So we had to dig out the old one and give it a try.  This thing just keeps on ticking!

Our 'spremipomodoro' hard at work. The salsa/passata comes out the front and the skins and seeds come out the side.

Our ‘spremipomodoro’ hard at work. The salsa/passata comes out the front and the skins and seeds come out the side.

Passata di pomodoro

Passata di pomodoro

Salt is added to the passata/salsa as a preservative and it is ladled into jars with fresh basilico (basil). We use canning jars and juice bottles.  My relatives in Italia used to ladle their salsa into big amber beer bottles!
Passatadipomodoro3Sterilized lids are screwed on tightly, and the jars are place back in the large pot, which is lined with cloth so they don’t clang together. The pot is brought to a soft boil for about half an hour.

Vasetti (jars) of passata in a huge cloth lined pot

Vasetti (jars) of passata in a huge cloth lined pot

The warm jars are placed upside down and covered in blankets until the next day when they have cooled. Then they are stored in the cantina!

La cantina! The bottom shelf is from last year.

La cantina! The bottom shelf is from last year.

I hope you enjoyed your passata di pomodoro tour! Now I’m in the mood for orecchiette con sugo! Ciao, Cristina

 

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Bambini, Soccer and World Peace

23 Saturday Aug 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Culture, Inspiration, Italia, Italian life, Orsara di Puglia

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Calcio, Inspiration, Orsara di Puglia, Soccer

orsaracampetto
Bambini are amazing. My 9 year old nipotino (nephew) Vito loves soccer (aka calico/football/futbol) and all things associated. He had predicted Germany would win the World Cup before it even started. Vito came to Orsara di Puglia this year, and really wanted to play, so our Zia called a friend whose son played and arranged to have them meet ‘sotto la sveglia’ (under the clock) at Porta San Pietro at 9pm. When we went to meet him, I also saw my friends’ son and asked him if he liked to play. Within minutes, all of the 10-11 year old boys in the area had gathered and enthusiastically arranged to meet the next morning at ‘il campetto’ (the small soccer field) for a game, then they all went for a passeggiata. It was the cutest thing ever and could have been a TV advertisement for the next world cup!
The next morning, they all showed up and there were enough boys for 2 teams. They played for 2 hours and Vito was excited that they all played as enthusiastically as he did. He understands Italian quite well, and even with all the loud ‘friendly arguing’ in dialetto and hand gestures, they had no problems communicating.  They were adorable, and got together to play 2 more times while Vito was there.  They even played in the afternoons in the narrow streets, and went out for pizza Margherita or a passeggiata in the evenings. I think that if bambini were in charge….. maybe there would be hope for world peace?

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