A few years ago, I spent a few lovely days visiting the Cinque Terre with Isabella. I wrote about this in Le Cinque Terre and Exploring le Cinque Terre. However….. we actually only went to Quattro Terre since we missed one of the towns!
Perché? Well….there are 2 series of trails in the Cinque Terre. The Sentiero Azzurro (blue path or trail), a 12 km former donkey trail along the sea that connects all the villages is the shorter, flatter one. The part from Riomaggiore to Manarola, called Via dell’Amore, was washed out by a mudslide in 2012 and had been closed for 5 years. Several other Sentiero Azzurro paths were closed from more recent slides.
The Sentiero Rosso network of trails from Portovenere to Levanto is higher up into and over the mountains and terraced vineyards. It is longer, 35 km (22 miles) steeper and much more challenging. The elevation gain is 610 m (2000 ft). The Sentiero Rosso also includes trails going to 5 Sanctuaries-one above each village.
My niece and I had to use the Sentiero Rosso (red path) in 2019. We hiked from Corniglia to Manarola, via Volastra and from Vernazza to Monterosso. The part from Vernazza to Corniglia was washed out from a more recent mudslide. We were able to take the train to from Vernazza, where we were staying, to Corniglia, and return from Manarola to Vernazza. Our hike took over 3 hours, so we did not have time to take the train to Riomaggiore. The next day, there was a sciopero, one of those dreaded train strikes. This is why we missed out on visiting Riomaggiore.
Via dell’Amore has been fully paved and finally reopened in 2024. Since I was in Viareggio for a few days in May, I decided to take the train to Riomaggiore so that I could finally say I’d been to all 5 of the Cinque Terre. It was also an opportunity to have the besto Pesto Genovese! My 20 min train ride to La Spezia was followed by an 8 min, very crowded but happy train to Riomaggiore.
Via dell’ Amore was constructed in 1920-1930. It closed due to rain and mudslide in 2012 and reopened in 2024. The path is a paved ‘bridge’ along the cliffs by the sea. 25-30 m above sea level. It is 1.5-3 m wide. Even strollers can go on it, so you can’t really call it a hike. It is only 1 km long and takes about a half hour. It is now one way, so only possible to go from Riomaggiore to Manarola, and not the other way around. The return is by train or boat.
The views are beautiful. Manarola, and even Corniglia can be seen in the distance. Via dell’ Amore is easily walkable and if you are just there for a daytrip, it may the the only ‘trail’ that you have time for. Riomaggiore is small and picturesque with a cute harbour. 
Although the scenery was mozzafiato-breathtaking-I have to admit, for me the path was a bit underwhelming, since I walked the Sentiero Rosso from Corniglia to Manarola, which is vineyards in the sky, surrounded by sea. However, if you are on a daytrip, or have mobility issues, it is definitely worth doing. Unfortunately, the path is included in the CT pass, as maintaining these trails is expensive. There is a ‘timed entry’ so you also need to book a time to walk the path. This can be booked online, or at the Cinque Terre Park office in La Spezia or Riomaggiore. I got the pass and reservation together at the office in Riomaggiore and only waited 10 minutes. On weekends, everything will be more crowded.
Dynamic pricing has hit the Cinque Terre. Individual train tickets for adults between La Spezia and Levanto valid for 75 minutes are €5, €8 or €10, depending on the season and day of the week. If you plan to hike and take the train, buy a Cinque Terre Treno Card. The combo card (trekking and treno) includes unlimited train travel between La Spezia and Levanto, use of all the hiking trails, and the local bus. The price depends on whether it is low, medium or high season. A 1 day pass for adults is €22-35, 2 day pass €36- €61, and 3 day pass €49-86. Family passes for 2 adults and 2 bambini are also available.
The Cinque Terre Trekking Card includes the Via del Amore, hiking trails and local bus. A 1 day adult pass is €10-15, 2 days is €17-26 and 3 days €23.50-32.50. From Nov 2-March 12 hiking trails are free. For all of the information on pricing, check here. Also check the website for trail status and conditions before you go! Buon Viaggio!











































































