Sanremo 2023

30 Monday Jan 2023

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Culture, Feste, Italian life

Tags

Festival di Sanremo, Liguria, Musica Italiana

The 73rd edition of Festa della Canzone Italiana di Sanremo is February 7-11, 2023, broadcast live on RAI. Once again this year, I have put together a viewing guide to the annual 5 day song competition held in the town of Sanremo, Liguria. The Festival di Sanremo is the world’s longest running national televised music competition.

In 1950. Piero Bussetti of the Sanremo Casino and Giulio Razzi, conductor of the RAI orchestra launched a competition for previously unreleased songs to boost the local economy. The first edition was broadcast live on RAI radio in January 1951 with 3 artists performing 20 songs. Since 1955 it is broadcast live on television.

From 1951-1977 the festival was held at the Sanremo Casino. Since 1977 it has been at the iconic Teatro Ariston. The Festival di Sanremo is a massive media event in Italia and has launched many careers, including Domenico Modugno, Zucchero, Mina, Andrea Bocelli, Il Volo, Giorgia, Laura Pausini, Eros Ramazzotti, Mahmood and most recently Måneskin. I love to watch Sanremo every year with Mamma!

The winner has the option to represent Italia at the annual Eurovision Song Contest. Eurovision is huge in Europe with 39 countries participating, but hardly known at all in North America. 2021 Sanremo winners, Måneskin won Eurovision with their brilliant song ‘Zitti e Buoni’. As the reigning country, Italia hosted Eurovision 2022- in Torino. Mahmood and Blanco represented Italia with the 2022 winner ‘Brividi‘.

The 73rd edition of the Festival di Sanremo is February 7-11, 2023, broadcast live on RAI (RAI International for the rest of us). It will be hosted for the fourth time by Amedeus, with cohost Gianni Morandi. Chiara Ferragni will also cohost the first and final nights. Former winners, Italian and international guest artists will perform.

Feb 7th, Mahmoud and Blanco will perform ‘Brividi‘, and 1990 winners I Pooh will sing together for the first time in 6 years. Al Bano and Massimo Ranieri perform with Gianni Morandi Feb 8th, as well as the Black Eyed Peas. Måneskin performs on Thursday Feb 9th. Other performers include Salmo, Fedez, Takagi, Piero Pelù, Nik, Francesco Renga, Achille Lauro, Annalisa and La Rappresentante di Lista. There are rumours Lady Gaga and Britney Spears will perform, but there is no confirmation at this point.

The award goes to the winning song, although in most cases the performers are involved in the songwriting. This year, there are 28 contestants, including the top 6 winners from the junior contest, ‘Sanremo Giovani’. Judging is complex and contestants perform with the full RAI orchestra-complete with maestro.

A summary of what happens each night:

Night #1 and #2 February 7 and 8. 14 of the contestants perform each night and there are no eliminations. Voting is 33% TV and print media jury, 33% web media jury and 33% radio jury.

Night #3 February 9. All 28 contestants perform, with no eliminations. Voting is 50% demoscopic jury* and 50% televoting.

Night #4 February 10 is ‘Covers night’. Each artist/group performs a cover song of their choice from 1960-1999 They can perform solo or invite an Italian or international artist as a guest. Voting is 33% televoting, 33% press jury and 33% demoscopic jury.

Final night #5 February 11th. There are 2 rounds the final night. In round 1 all 28 acts perform. Voting is 100% from televoting. The top 5 proceed to round 2, the Superfinale. Voting is reset and all 5 superfinalists perform again. The winner is decided by 33% televoting, 33% press jury and 33% demoscopic jury.

*Demoscopic jury=made up of a sample of the population. Jurors are selected by statistical criteria to represent the country at large.

The lineup of concorrenti /contestants includes 3 former Sanremo winners, 2 who have represented Italia at Eurovision, many former contestants, and some first time acts. Below is a list of the 28 performers, the song titles and a few other details to help you watch and enjoy the festival:

Anna Oxa – ‘Sale (Canto dell’anima)‘. Anna released her first album in 1978 and was runner up at the Festival di Sanremo. She is a 2 time winner; in 1989 with duet ‘Ti Lascerò’ and in 1999 with ‘Senza Pietà’. She and Fausto Leali represented Italia at Eurovision 1989 in Lausanne with ‘Avrei voluto‘, placing 9th. This will be Anna’s 14th time at Sanremo across 5 decades!
Ariete – ‘Mare di Guai’. Roman singer Arianna Del Giaccio was an X Factor Italia contestant in 2019. In 2022 she released the album ‘Specchio‘ which 1,000,000 streams in 24 hours. For covers night she will perform with Sangiovanni
Articolo 31– ‘Un bel Viaggio’. This hip hop duo from Milano formed in 1990 consists of Alessandro Aleotti (aka rapper J-Ax) and Vito Luca Perrini (DJ Jad). They are together again to compete in Sanremo for the first time and are working on their 8th album. For covers night, Fedez will join them for a medley.
Colapesce e Dimartini – ‘Splash’ Sicilian duo Lorenzo Urciullo and Antonio Dimartino competed in 2021 with the hit song ‘Musica Leggerissima‘. This is their second time at Sanremo. For covers night, they perform Adriano Celentano’s ‘Azzurro‘ with Carla Bruni.
Colla Zio – ‘Non mi va’. This quintet of 21-25 years olds from Milano released ‘Zafferano’ in 2021. They place in the top 6 in Sanremo Giovani.
Coma-cose – ‘L’addio’. Milanese indie duo consisting of life and music partners since 2016 Fausto Zanardelli (aka Fausto Lama) and Francesca Mesiano (aka California). They participated in Sanremo 2021 with the song ‘Fiamme negli occhi’ which went gold in 3 weeks. This is their second time at Sanremo.
Elodie – ‘Due’. The Roman singer participated in Amici* in 2016, and Sanremo in 2017 with ‘Tutta colpa mia‘ and in 2020 with ‘Andromeda‘. In 2020 Elodie was the most listened to female artist on Spotify Italia. In 2021 she was the cohost for night #2 of Sanremo. She is competing for the 3rd time and has an album due out February 10th.
Gianluca Grignani – ‘Quando ti manca il fiato’. This is Gianluca’s 7th time competing at Sanremo. The first time was in 1994 for Sanremo Giovani. He was also a guest in 2022 on covers night, singing with Irama. For covers night he will be singing with Arisa.
gIANMARIA – ‘Mostro’. The singer from Vicenza is the winner of Sanremo Giovani. On covers night he will sing with Manuel Agnelli who sang with Måneskin in 2021.
Giorgia- ‘Parole dette male’. Giorgia Todrani has 12 top 10 albums, 24 top 10 singles, and a vocal range that spans 4 octaves. In 1994 she placed second in the Nuovi Proposti (newcomers category), losing to Andrea Bocelli! Giorgia won Sanremo 1995 with ‘Come Saprei’, came in 3rd place in 1996, and 2nd in 2001. She even won a Davide di Donatello (the Italian version of an Oscar) in 2004 for original movie song. She has performed with Pavarotti, Mina, Eros Ramazzotti, Elton John, Alicia Keys, Jovanotti, Ray Charles, and Andrea Bocelli (‘Vivo per Lei‘). Giorgia was a musical guest at Sanremo 2017. She has a new album ‘Blu’ coming out on February 27th. This is her 4th time in the competion. She duets with Elisa on covers night.
I Cugini di Campagna – ‘Lettera 22’. This quartet of Silvano and Ivano Michetti, Tiziano Leonardi and Nick Luciani formed in 1970 and started by busking near the Fontana di Trevi. This is their first time at Sanremo and their song was written by La Rapresentante di Lista, of 2022’s ‘Ciao Ciao‘.
Lazza – ‘Cenere’. This is Jacopo Lazzarini’s first time competing at Sanremo.
LDA – ‘Se poi domani’. 19 year old rapper Luca D’Alessio, is an Amici 2021 participant and son of Napoletano singer Gigi D’Alessio. He started doing covers on YouTube at age 13. This is his first Sanremo competition. He performs with Alex Britti on covers night.
Leo Gassmann – ‘Terzo Cuore’. The son of Alessandro Gassman and grandson of Vittorio Gassman was a semi-finalist in the 2018 edition of X factor. in 2020 he won the ‘newcomers’ category of Sanremo with ‘Vai bene cost‘ and this is his first time as a regular contestant.
Levante– ‘Vivo’. Sicilian singer Claudia Lagona released her first album in 2014 and competed in Sanremo in 2019 with ‘Tikibombom’. She was an X Factor judge in 2017 and has collaborated with Max Gazzè, Negramaro, J-Ax and Fedez. She has also published 3 romance novels. This is her second time at Sanremo.
Madame – ‘Il Bene nel male’. 18 year old rapper from Vicenza Francesca Calearo known as Madame participated in Sanremo 2021 with the song ‘Voce’. She recently collaborated with Negramaro on ‘Non è vero niente‘. This is her second time competing in Sanremo and she is once again the youngest contestant.
Mara Sattei – ‘Duemilaminuti’ Roman singer Sara Mattei was a previous contestant on Amici and guest on X factor. She became known for making YouTube videos with her brother Davide (known as thasup) starting in 2017 and released her first album in 2022. Her catchy quadruple platinum single with Fedez and Tananai ‘La Dolce Vita‘ was the song most played last summer. In this competition, she is singing a song written by Damiano David of Måneskin!!! Mara performs with Noemi on covers night.
Marco Mengoni – ‘Due vite’. Marco is back competing at Sanremo on the 10 year anniversary of his 2013 win with ‘L’essenziale‘. He also represented Italia at Eurovision that year in Sweden, coming in 7th. Marco is also the winner of 2009 season 3 of X factor, a 2 time winner of the MTV Europe Music Award for Best European act and an ambassador for National Geographic’s international campaign ‘Planet or plastic?’.
Modà – ‘Lasciami’. One of my favourite bands, Modà was started in Milano in 2000 by Francesco ‘Kekko’ Silvestre. This is their 3rd time competing at Sanremo. In 2011 their song ‘Arriverà’ with Emma Marrone came in 2nd place and in 2013 ‘Se si potesse non morire’ came in 3rd place. 2023 is the 20th anniversary of the release of their first album. On covers night they perform with Le Vibrazioni.
Mr Rain-‘Supereroi‘. Rapper and ex Amici participant Mattia Balardi from Brescia is known as ‘Mr Rain’. He will be duetting with 2022 contestants Highsnob & Hu for covers night.
Olly – ‘Polvere’. The Genovese rapper has collaborated with singer Arisa and earned a spot in the competition via Sanremo Giovani
Paola e Chiara – ‘Furore’. The sisters from Milano were in Sanremo Giovani in 1996 and 1997. They competed in 1998 and in 2005 with the international hit of the summer ‘Vamos a Bailar’. In 2013, they each went solo, Chiara Iezzi to acting and Paola Iezzi dj, producing and singing. Last year they joined Jovanotti’s Beach party 2022 and they are back to Sanremo for the 3rd time.
Rosa Chemical – ‘Made in Italy’ Rosa Chemical is 24 year old rapper Manuel Franco from Torino, who has also been a Gucci Italia model since 2018. He was a guest performer at Sanremo 2022 covers night with Tananai.
Sethu – ‘Cause perse’. Marco De Lauri released his first EP in 2018. In 2020 he had 3 singles on Spotify’s Raptopia, Gen Z, and Novità Rap Italiano playlists. Sethu has opened for Pinguini Tattici Nucleari and was named MTV artist of the month September 2022. He is a top 6 finalist in Sanremo Giovani. Sethu claims to be ‘fundamentally an incurable doomer’. His song is dedicated to inseparable twin Jiz.
Shari-‘Egoista‘. Shari was in Sanremo Giovani in 2019. She recently released her first EP, ‘Fake Music‘ and is one of the top 6 Sanremo Giovani finalists.
Tananai – ‘Tango’. 27 year old Alberto Ramusino from Brescia participated last year with his single ‘Sesso Occasionale’ and placed second in Sanremo Giovani. Last summer he collaborated with Fedez and Mara Sattei on the catchy quadruple platinum hit ‘La Dolce Vita‘. He performs with Biagio Antonacci on covers night.
Ultimo – ‘Alba’. Niccolò Moriconi’s first album in 2017 was 3X platinum and his second album in 2018 5X platinum. He won the ‘newcomers’ category in 2018 and came in second place at Sanremo 2019 with ‘I tuoi particulari’. That same year, Ultimo became the youngest Italian artist to play stadium tours. In 2021 he had a record 4 simultaneous albums in the annual chart-according to the Italian music federation. He also collaborated with Ed Sheeran on ‘2Step‘. On covers night, he performs a medley with Eros Ramazzotti.
Will– ‘Stupido‘. William Busetti released his first music on YouTube in 2019. In 2020 ‘Estate’ had over 40 million streams on Spotify and went platinum. He released his first EP in June and is one of the Sanremo Giovani top 6 finalists.

*Amici is an Italian talent show on television since 2001. 20 ‘students’ aged 16-30 years who are interested in being professional singers, songwriters and dancers participate. Nuovi proposti was a previous ‘newcomers’ category. Now there is Sanremo Giovani, the junior category and the top 6 go on to the regular competition.

Read the contestants’ full bios on the Festival di Sanremo website. RAI International usually airs the shows twice-once live at 1900 -0100ish Italian time, and a replay later. Check the local listings for your country. The RaiPlay app is another way to watch -and it will not be Geoblocked!

Will you be watching the Festival di Sanremo? Let me know which performances you are looking forward to or which ones were your favourites!

Ciao, Cristina

Festival di Sanremo

30 Sunday Jan 2022

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Culture, Feste, Italian life

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Festival di Sanremo, Liguria, Musica Italiana

February is almost here, and so is the Festival di Sanremo, an annual 5 day song competition held in the Ligurian seaside town of Sanremo. The full name is Festa della Canzone Italiana di Sanremo, and it is the longest running national televised music competition in the world.

In 1950. Piero Bussetti of the Sanremo Casino and Giulio Razzi, conductor of the RAI orchestra decided to launch a competition for previously unreleased songs to boost the local economy. The first edition was broadcast live on RAI radio in January 1951 with 3 participants performing 20 songs. Since 1955 it has been broadcast live on television.

From 1951-1977 it was held at the Sanremo Casino. Since 1977 it has been at the iconic Teatro Ariston. The Festival di Sanremo is a huge media event in Italia and has launched many careers, including Domenico Modugno, Mina, Zucchero, Andrea Bocelli, Il Volo, Giorgia, Laura Pausini, Eros Ramazzotti, Mahmood and most recently Måneskin. I love to watch Sanremo every year with mamma! The winner has the first option to represent Italia at the annual Eurovision Song Contest. Eurovision is huge in Europe with 39 countries participating, but hardly known at all in North America. Last year’s Sanremo winners, Måneskin also won Eurovision with their brilliant song ‘Zitti e Buoni’. As the reigning country, Italia hosts Eurovision in 2022- May 10-14 in Torino.

The 72^nd edition of the Festival di Sanremo is February 1-5, 2022, broadcast live on RAI (RAI International for the rest of us). It will be hosted for the third time by Amedeus, with different cohosts. There will be performances by former winners, Italian, international guest artists and the hilarious comic Fiorello. Superospite (superguests) include Mäneskin February 1 and Golden Globe winner/Oscar nominee Laura Pausini February 2! The rest are a surprise! It is not confirmed yet, but there will likely be a decreased capacity audience.

The award goes to the winning song, although in most cases the performers are also the songwriters and/ or composers. This year, there are 25 contestants, including the top 3 winners from the junior contest, ‘Sanremo Giovani’. Judging is complex and contestants perform with the backing of the full RAI orchestra-complete with maestro.

Here is a summary of what happens each night:

Night #1 and #2 February 1 and 2 -12-13 of the contestants perform each night and there are no eliminations. Voting is 33% TV and print media jury, 33% web media jury and 33% radio jury.

Night #3 February 3 – All 25 contestants perform, no eliminations. Voting is 50% demoscopic jury* and 50% televoting.

Night #4 February 4 ‘Covers night’. Each artist/group performs a song from the 60’s, 70’s or 80’s. They can perform solo or invite an acclaimed Italian or international artist as a guest. Voting is 33% televoting, 33% press jury and 33% demoscopic jury.

Final night #5 February 5. There are 2 rounds the final night. In round 1 all 25 acts perform. Voting is 100% from televoting. The top 3 proceed to round 2, the Superfinale. Voting is reset and all 3 superfinalists perform again. The winner is decided by 33% televoting, 33% press jury and 33% demoscopic jury.

*Demoscopic jury=made up of a sample of the population. Jurors are selected by statistical criteria to represent the country at large.

The lineup of contestants includes 3 icons, 7 former winners and many former contestants, 6 who have represented Italia at Eurovision and a few debut acts. Here is a list of the 25 performers, the song titles and a few other details to help you watch and enjoy the festival:

Achille Lauro – ‘Domenica’. Achille gave 4 stunning ‘shock glam’ performances as a guest last year. This is his 3^rd time as a participant. He will be teaming up with Loredana Bertè for covers night.
Aka7even – ‘Perfetta cosi’ Luca Marzano won Best Italian act at the MTV Europe Music Awards in 2021. He released his first album in May.
Ana Mena – ‘Duecentomila ore’. Ana is a Spanish singer and actress and was a guest for cover night in 2020.
Dargen D’Amico – ‘Dove si balla’
Elisa – ‘O forse sei tu’. 2001 Sanremo winner for ‘Luce’ and 4 guest appearances. She performed at the closing ceremonies of the Torino Olympics.
Emma – ‘Ogni volta è cosi’. Emma Marrone is the 2012 Sanremo winner for ‘Non è l’inferno’. She has made guest appearances, co-hosted, and is now back performing 10 years later. Emma represented Italia at Eurovision 2014. For covers night, she is performing Britney Spears’ ‘Baby hit me one more time’ with Francesca Michielin.
Fabrizio Moro – ‘Sei tu’. 2018 Sanremo winner with Ermal Meta for ‘Non mi avete fatto niente’ and represented Italia at Eurovision. This is Fabrizio’s 6^th time performing. He also won the Giovani category in 2007.
Gianni Morandi – ‘Apri tutte le porte’. An Italian legend, 77 year old Gianni is a former host, 5 time participant and 1987 winner with Enrico Ruggeri and Umberto Tozzi for ‘Si puo dare di più’. He represented Italia at Eurovision in 1970.
Giovanni Truppi – ‘Tuo padre, mia madre, Lucia’
Giusy Ferreri – ‘Miele’. Giusy placed 2^nd in the 1^st edition of X Factor Italia in 2008. She is the most successful Italian artist to emerge from a talent show. This is her 4^th time at Sanremo.
Highsnob & Hu – ‘Abbi cura di te’
Irama – ‘Ovunque sarai’ Irama was not able to perform live last year due one of his staff testing COVID positive. He placed 5^th based on his pre-recorded rehearsal performance!
Iva Zanicchi – ‘Voglio amarti’. The 82 year old singer and politician won Sanremo 3 times (1967, 1969, 1974) during her 60 year career and has been a guest and juror. She represented Italia at Eurovision in 1969.
La Rappresentante di Lista (LRDL) – ‘Ciao Ciao’. This is duo Veronica Lucchesi and Dario Mangiaracina’s second time at Sanremo, including a cover night guest performance.
Le Vibrazioni – ‘Tantissimo’ This is the group’s 4th time at Sanremo.
Mahmood e Blanco – ‘Brividi’. Mahmood (Alessandro Mahmoud) is the 2019 Sanremo winner and 2^ndplace Eurovision winner with the catchy ‘Soldi’. He was a guest performer the past 2 years and wrote or cowrote several of the competing songs in 2021. He is performing with 18 year old Blanco Fabbriconi who recently released his first album.
Massimo Ranieri – ‘Lettera al di là del mare’. 1988 Sanremo winner for ‘Perdere l’amore’. This is his 6^th time participating as well as guest appearances and judging Sanremo Giovani in 2016. Massimo represented Italia at Eurovision in 1971 and 1973. For Covers night, he will be performing a Pino Daniele song with Nek!
Matteo Romano – ‘Virale’ (Sanremo Giovani 3rd place)
Michele Bravi – ‘Inverno dei Fiori’. Michele is the winner of the 7^th edition of X Factor Italia in 2013. This is his 2^nd time at Sanremo.
Noemi – ‘Ti amo non lo so dire’. 4^th time in competition. Noemi was on X Factor in 2009 and a judge for The Voice of Italy 2013-15.
Rettore e Ditonellapiaga – ‘Chimica’ Donatella Rettore is an 80’s icon best known for ‘Kobra’. This is her 5^th time at Sanremo and she was a guest last year on Covers night. She is performing with first timer Ditonellapiaga.
Rkomi – ‘Insuperabile’ The successful Italian rapper makes his Sanremo debut.
Sangiovanni – ‘Farfalle’. Making his Sanremo debut, the 18 year old released his first album in May. His song ‘Malibu’ had the most listens on Spotify Italy in 2021.
Tananai – ‘Sesso occasionale’ (Sanremo Giovani 2nd place)
Yuman – ‘Ora e qui’ (Sanremo Giovani winner)

Read the contestants’ full bios on the Festival di Sanremo website. RAI International usually airs the shows twice-once live at 1900 Italian time, and a replay later. Check the local listings for your country. The RaiPlay app is another way to watch -and it will not be Geoblocked this year!

If you have not seen the winning performance of ‘Zitti e Buoni‘ and the awards presentation from Sanremo 2021 here is the video. Zitti e buoni literally means ‘quiet and good’, but in this context means ‘shut up and behave’. The lyrics are brilliant. They are about being yourself and not conforming or worrying about gossip. Read more about the lyrics here.

Will you be watching the Festival di Sanremo? Let me know which performances you are looking forward to or which ones were your favourites!

Ciao, Cristina

Corzetti

17 Friday Apr 2020

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Photography, Recipes

≈ 32 Comments

Tags

Cinque Terre, Corzetti, Corzetti with mushroom and walnut sauce, Italian cooking, Liguria, Pasta, Pasta fatta a mano, Pesto Genovese, Printmaking

Corzetti (cor∙ZET∙ti) are a traditional pasta of Liguria, also called croxetti (cro∙shet∙ti) or crosetti in Ligurian. Corzetti are an embossed pasta shaped to look like gold coins. The name comes from ‘crux’, latin for cross. They have been around for a very long time. We know this because the Republic of Genoa had a medieval coin with a Genovese cross and there is a 1362 literary reference to pasta with crossetti served at a banquet.

Corzetti are made with un stampo per corzetti- a corzetti stamp. This is a 2 part device made of unfinished wood-usually pear wood. The textured finish of the wood is functional-it transfers to the pasta and helps hold sauce, as does the embossed design. The bottom of the lower half is used to cut the circles. The top of the lower piece and the upper piece with the handle for pressing each have a carved design.

Corzetti are like edible woodcut prints! The perfect pasta for a printmaker. This must be why I like making them so much!
If you read the posts Le Cinque Terre and Exploring le Cinque Terre, you may remember my determined quest to find a corzetti stamp. In Corniglia, I found dried corzetti for sale, but no stamp. I did not notice any restaurants serving them either, but I also did not look very hard. I finally found a stamp by accident in a tiny shop in Vernazza, the town where we were staying. They were in a basket at the back, where no one could see them!

The design on my stamp is a stem of wheat, with a swirl on the other side. It cost 11 Euro and was carved by a local fisherman. I saw a similar one online for $72 US. You can also custom order stamps but they can be very expensive. It is much more fun to buy something like this where it is produced.

Noble Ligurian families had their family coat of arms engraved on the stamps. Designs also include crosses, wheat, gigli (fleur de Lis) or the emblem of il pastaio, the pastamaker.

Circles are cut on a freshly rolled sfoglia or pasta sheet-not too thick, but thick enough to hold the embossing. Each corzetto is pressed between the 2 parts of the stamp, embossing a design on each side. If the pasta is rolled out too thin, the designs will transfer to the other side.

Corzetti dough is traditionally made with eggs and white wine. It is usually made with flour and semola rimacinata di grano duro (called semolina in North America) or chestnut flour. Traditionally, corzetti are served with pesto or olive oil, herbs and pine nuts. They can also be served with an herb and scallop or mushroom walnut sauce. I have made corzetti several times now, and here is the dough combination I found works the best:

To make Corzetti:

200g (1.5 cups) 00 or All-Purpose flour

200g (1.5 cups) semola rimacinata (Semolina)

3 medium sized eggs plus 2 yolks-add an extra egg if they are small

60ml dry white wine (1/4 cup)

5ml (1 tsp) Extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of salt

Make a well with the flours on a wooden board. Place the eggs, wine and EVOO in the center and beat with a fork, then slowly start to mix in the flour. This dough needs to be soft and elastic to hold the embossing and you may not need all of the flour. Keep some to the side in case it is not needed. Once the mixture is less liquid, start to mix by hand. Knead for 10 minutes. Roll into a ball, cover and let rest for 30 min.

Use half the dough at a time, and keep the other half from drying out by covering with an upturned bowl. Roll the dough out by hand 3mm thick. You can use a pasta machine, but hand rolling will result in a better embossing. Lightly flour the corzetti stamp. Cut circles as close together as possible. Pasta rolled out multiple times will not be consistent thickness and will dry out, and not take the embossing as well. Stand up while pressing down firmly on the top of the stamp with the palm of the hand to get the best quality embossing. This makes 60-65 corzetti.

I like to serve corzetti with a traditional Pesto Genovese. This mushroom walnut sauce is also yummy.

Corzetti con Funghi e Noce / Corzetti with Mushrooms and Walnuts

200g porcini mushrooms or mixed mushrooms in season

1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 celery stalk

2 cloves garlic

Prezzemolo (Italian parsley)

200 g (~3/4 cup) walnuts shelled

30g (2 tablespoons) pine nuts

Dry white wine

EVOO, salt

Finely chop everything except the pine nuts.

Make a soffritto-Fry the onion in olive oil, add carrot and celery, half of the garlic and the pine nuts

In another pan, fry the mushrooms (these can be finely chopped or just separate the tops and bottoms) then add the soffritto. Add wine and cook for 30 min.

Before serving, add salt, the rest of the garlic, and prezzemolo

Cook corzetti in boiling salted water for 3-4 min. Add mushroom sauce and sprinkle with the chopped walnuts and grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

Want to try making corzetti, but don’t have a stamp? Cut circles out with a 5cm (2 inch) diameter drinking glass. Use a cookie press for the design, or find something that can be lightly pressed to make a design in the dough-a wax seal, a ring, the crosshatch design on your meat tenderizer….. get creative!

It is hard to believe I was in Liguria 11 months ago. Since we can not travel there-or anywhere at this time, I hope this helps you viaggiare in pultrona… armchair travel to the coast of Liguria and the Cinque Terre. Buon viaggio and stay safe, Cristina

Exploring le Cinque Terre

05 Friday Jul 2019

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Photography, Travel tips, Vino

≈ 18 Comments

Tags

Cinque Terre card, Corniglia, Corzetti, Liguria, Manarola, Monterosso a mare, Pesto Genovese, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Vernazza

Le Cinque Terre are 5 stunning clifftop villages on the Coast of Liguria, between La Spezia and Levanto. In my last post I described the area, the villages, how to get there and around. In this post, I write specifically about the experiences I had visiting the area 6 weeks ago with my nipotina* Isabella. Hiking between the 5 villages was our plan. They are connected by rail and also by a series of ancient donkey trails. Along the sea is the ‘Sentiero Azzurro (blue trail) which is flat between Riomaggiore and Manarola, but otherwise gains quite a bit of elevation. The other series of trails is the Sentiero Rosso (red trail), higher up into and over the mountains and terraced vineyards. These are longer and much more challenging, and include trails going to 5 Sanctuaries-one above each village.

Rain and mudslides periodically damage the trails. It is important to check the conditions on the Cinque Terre website. 2 of the 4 sections of Sentiero Azzurro have been closed for a while and are apparently not scheduled to reopen until 2021! We knew this before arriving, but did not know that the trail from Corniglia to Vernazza was also recently closed!

At the Cinque Terre Info Point in La Spezia buying Cinque Terre cards, we were informed of the extra closure. This left us with only 1 accessible section, the Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare section-the most strenuous, of course. To make things worse, they would not sell us a 2 day Cinque Terre card. Perché? Because the next day was going to be one of those dreaded ‘sciopero dei treni’– train strike. Mannaggia! These unexpected things happen when travelling, and no amount of planning ahead will prevent them-so we just adjusted our plans and made the best of it.

Our accomodation was in Vernazza, so we headed there first. Getting off the train at noon, my first thought was ‘mannaggia a te Rick Steeves!’ Via Roma, the main street of this beautiful but tiny village was so packed with people we barely had elbow room! It was loud, crowded, and probably the worst time of day to be there. I could hear the waiters approach everyone in english-a pet peeve of mine. This was mid-May-I can only imagine summer!

After pushing our way down Via Roma to Piazza Marconi at the harbour, we checked in at the restaurant renting our room. The room was waaaaay up a series of 6 narrow staircases winding through tiny streets and alleys, just below Castello Doria. I was glad I did not have a lot of luggage! The view from the top was worth the climb! The roof had a terrazza with chairs and a view of the sea. I could have sat there with a book, but since there were no trains the next day, it was time to do some exploring.

To get to Corniglia, we took the train and climbed the almost 400 steps up from the stazione. Cute and quieter, Corniglia is the only village not on the sea. I looked around for a Corzetti stamp with no luck, then we set off on the much longer and steeper Sentiero Rosso to Manarola via an inland town called Volastra. There were viste mozzafiate-breathtaking views in every direction and the trail not crowded at all. It took us right through ‘vertical farmland’ high above the sea. They are called terrazzamenti a fasce -strip terraced vineyards and olive groves. I thought these long metal poles and brackets were to give support against rock and mudslides, but the next day I found out what they were for.

It took almost 3 hours to reach Manarola, a lovely town with a cute harbour and several viewpoints to walk to and watch the sunset. We decided not to go to Riomaggiore, as trains are less frequent in the evening and our visits to both towns would have been too rushed. Arriving by train back to Vernazza, the daytrippers were long gone and it was a beautiful evening for walking along the tiny harbour, taking photos and watching people try to fish.

The next morning, after colazione-breakfast on another terrazza overlooking the sea, we climbed up to Castello Doria, a few flights of stairs above our room. We had 360° views over Vernazza, the mountains and the sea. Then we headed out of town on the Sentiero Azzurro to Monterosso a Mare before the onslaught of daytrippers stepped off the train. The trail started just above Vernazza. It was a steep uphill climb for awhile and then we were rewarded with birds’ eye views directly over Vernazza. There were many more hikers on this trail than on the one yesterday, but it was not overly crowded. I did say ‘Buongiorno’ a lot! The scenery was amazing and included walks through more terraced vineyards, olive and lemon groves. I even had a closer look at some of the mysterious looking machinery and contraptions for transporting grapes down the mountain that I had seen the day before.

Monterosso was visible long before we reached it. The beach was long and sandy with a lungomare, a seaside walkway. We spotted fritto misto da asporto-takeout mixed fried seafood and veggies sold in paper cones. Despite the sciopero, a few local trains went by. We thought about taking the train to Riomaggiore, but were concerned about getting stuck there without a train back. We returned to Vernazza and bought pesto focaccia and a paper cone of fritto misto to have on the terrazza.

I was excited to finally find my stampo per Corzetti! Corzetti (Croxetti in Genovese) are traditional Ligurian pasta shaped like large coins with a design stamped on both sides. The design holds the sauce better! It was hand carved by a local fisherman and I can’t wait to try it. One design is an ear of wheat and the other a ‘swirly thing’. I looked for one in every town, and ended up finding it right in Vernazza. The shop owner and Isabella could not believe how excited I was to find it! Stay tuned for a corzetti pasta post in the future.

Later we walked part of the Vernazza to Corniglia trail, turning back at the point where it was closed. The views of Vernazza from the other side were amazing, but the weather was starting to change. The Sentiero Rosso can get to Corniglia, via the Sanctuary of San Bernardino, but it takes 3.5 hours! In the evening I attended a Cinque Terre wine tasting event hosted by Alessandro, a local sommelier on the terrazza. I tasted 3 Cinque Terre whites while looking out at the sea. Hiking with a 19 year old is exhausting, so this was a perfect way to end the day! Salute!

We loved our 2 days/nights in le Cinque Terre and could have used another day to go to Riomaggiore, and possibly take a boat. In our case, it is better we did not stay an extra day though-as we left for Milano in a torrential downpour. In bad weather, there are no indoor activities in the Cinque Terre villages-except reading a book on a terrazza. Travel to the area is best between April and September. October and November are rainy, then it gets cold.

In case you think that in my photos it does not look crowded, this is because I could not move my elbows wide enough to take a photo during the peak times! Le Cinque Terre are no longer an undiscovered gem but are definitely still worth visiting. If planning a visit, I would definitely recommend staying in one of the villages, for a calmer experience and to enjoy the mornings and evenings when the crowds of daytrippers have left for the day. During the busy hours, go hiking and exploring. The best way to see the area is on the trails! Many visitors stay in Portovenere or La Spezia for cheaper accomodation, but I do not think the experience is the same at all. Day tours also arrive from Firenze and Milano, 2.5-3 hours away, leaving little time to see the area. Be a daytripper only if you have no other option to ever visit the area. Staying in one of the villages may not be advisable for those with mobility issues or a lot of luggage.

Individual train tickets between La Spezia and Levanto are €4 and valid for 75 minutes. If you plan to hike and take the train, buy a Cinque Terre Card. The combo card (trekking and treno) includes unlimited train travel between La Spezia and Levanto, use of all the trails, and wifi that actually works! It costs €16 per day. For trekking only, it is €7.50 per day. The card is available for 2 and 3 days- except in the case of un sciopero! There are also family and low season prices. For more information, check here. Open toed shoes and smooth soles are not allowed on trails.

Eat as much seafood as possible, and pesto, not necessarily together-although Fooderia Manarola (@fooderia_manarola on instagram) does have panino con polpo (octopus) e pesto! My pesto is very good (recipe here) but the besto pesto is in Liguria! You can choose traditional trofie con pesto, lasagne con pesto and pesto focaccia. Pesto heaven! The paper cones of fritto misto -assorted seafood and veggies are delicious takeout food.

Have you visited le Cinque Terre? What did you think? Buon viaggio, Cristina

*Nipote or nipotina means both niece and granddaughter. In this case, it means niece!

Le Cinque Terre

28 Friday Jun 2019

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Photography, Travel, Vino

≈ 20 Comments

Tags

Cinque Terre card, Corniglia, Liguria, Manarola, Monterosso a mare, Terrazzamenti a fasce, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Vernazza

Le Cinque Terre are 5 villages precariously perched on the Coast of Liguria, between La Spezia and Levanto. Cinque Terre literally means ‘5 lands’, but in this case terre refers to villages. Inhabited since at least the 11^th Century, they likely date back to Roman times. The 5 villages are connected by rail, bus, boat and ancient trails that follow the coastline and go up into the mountains. The area was almost inaccessible except by sea, until the Genoa to La Spezia railway was built in 1870.

In 1997, the Cinque Terre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an example of a cultural, evolved organic landscape transformed by man over centuries. The inhabitants have adapted and shaped the steep, rugged, uneven coastal landscape so they could use the land vertically. Terrazzamenti a fasce (terraced strips of land) extend along the steep slopes, up to 400 m above sea level for growing grape vines, olive trees and lemon trees. They are held in place by 100’s of km of muretti a secco (dry stone walls). These are thought to have been built in the 12th century, when Saracen raids from the sea decreased. In 1999 il Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre was established, becoming Italia’s smallest yet most densely populated (~4,000 people) national park.

Aside from clifftop villages of colourful houses, viste mozzafiato (breathtaking views), hiking trails and terrazzamenti, the Cinque Terre area is known for fresh seafood, pesto Genovese made with local basilico and olio, lemons, and white grapes. The grapes are made into white wines, including Sciacchetrà, a sweet wine which is a blend of Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes.

The 5 villages are less than 10 minutes apart by train. Going from South to North, they are:

#1 Riomaggiore is the most Southern village with a population of 1500- including Manarola, Volastra and Groppo. Brightly coloured buildings are stacked on either side of a steep ravine down to the tiny harbour. The main Cinque Terre park office is in Riomaggiore and the start of the Sentiero Azzurro (blue trail) the 12 km old donkey trail along the sea, connecting all the villages. The section from Riomaggiore to Manarola, less than 1 km away, is the fairly flat Via del Amore, which is presently closed until 2021. Sadly, I did not make it to Riomaggiore-find out why in my next post!

#2 Manarola is surrounded by vineyards and famous for wine. The brightly coloured houses seem to follow the natural form of the coastline and lead down to the small harbour, boat ramp and several viewpoints. Carrugi-steep, narrow alleys all lead to the sea. Manarola is a perfect place to watch the sunset. From December 8th into January the hills behind Manarola are illuminated with more than 200 figures and 12.000 lights for the biggest lighted Presepio (Nativity scene) in the world.

#3 Corniglia population ~150 is considered part of Vernazza. It is the quietest village and the only one not on the coast. It is on a 100m high promontory, going steeply down to the sea. Surrounded by terrazzamenti on three sides Corniglia has views of the other villages. Ferries and boats do not stop here, since there is no harbour. Corniglia’s stazione is down near the sea, and the village, is accessed by climbing a wide staircase with 400 steps, called Lardarina. This probably explains why Corniglia is the quietest! There are buses too, although I did not see any. Corniglia was named for the Roman family who owned the land, and it was acquired in 1276 by the Repulic of Genoa. Corniglia’s vino is mentioned in Giovanni Boccaccio’s 14^th Century literary masterpiece Decameron:

e allora in una tovagliuola bianchissima gli portò due fette di pane arrostito e un gran bicchiere di vernaccia da Corniglia“. Translation by Cristina–‘and then, in an immaculately white napkin, I brought him 2 slices of toasted bread and a large glass of Vernaccia from Corniglia

#4 Vernazza is the most beautiful of the towns, with its tiny beach, picturesque natural harbour and breakwater, surrounded by terraced olive groves. The population is ~825 including Corniglia. Vernazza is first mentioned in 1080 as the fortified naval base of the Obertenghi family to protect the area from pirates. Verna refers to native or indigenous. The local vino is called Vernaccia, which is probably where Vernazza gets its name. A climb to the 15^th Century Castello Doria (admission €1.50) will reward you with stunning views over the harbour. The harbour church, Santa Margherita di Antiochia was built in 1251, and the octagonal tower added in the 16^th C. The Sanctuary Nostra Signora di Reggio is a 1 hour steep walk away.

In 2011 rainstorms caused massive flooding and mudslides. Vernazza and its stazione were buried under 4m of mud and debris and 7 people were killed. Along the main street is a large black and white photo display of the flooding.

#5 Monterosso al Mare pop 1425 is the largest and most northern village. It is the most accessible by car and has more hotels and amenities and a large beach, the only sand beach in the area. There is an old and new town, separated by a tunnel and the stazione. Monterosso is famous for lemons and anchovies.

How to get there and around– Taking a car to Cinque Terre is a bit of a pain. It is possible to drive there, but the villages are car free, so the car has to be parked somewhere. Parking is more available in and around Monterosso, Levanto and La Spezia.

Boats and ferries leave from La Spezia, Portovenere, Lerici and Genova. Note that many of them do not operate from October to March.

Train is the easiest, cheapest and most efficient way to travel. There are frequent local trains between La Spezia and Levanto. Many people go on daytours from other cities, but note that Firenze is 2.5 hours away and Milano is 3 hours away, which does not leave much time for enjoying the area. It is possible to stay in La Spezia, Pisa Portovenere, Genova, Levanto, Lerici or even Santa Margherita Ligure and commute by train, but you can read more about that in the next post!

Individual train tickets between La Spezia and Levanto are €4 and valid for 75 minutes. If you plan to hike and take the train, buy a Cinque Terre Card. The combo card (trekking and treno) includes unlimited train travel between La Spezia and Levanto, use of all the trails, and wifi that actually works! It costs €16 per day. For trekking only, it is €7.50 per day. The card is available for 2 and 3 days, except in my case! There are also family and low season prices. For more information, check here.

**Note that proper footwear is required on all the trails. Open toed shoes and smooth soles are not allowed and there are fines.

In the next post, I will tell you the details of my own Cinque Terre experience last month, including why I did not go to Riomaggiore!

Buon viaggio, Cristina