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Un po' di pepe

~ …… (oon∙poh∙dee∙PEH∙peh) Cristina writes about interesting stuff /Cristina scrive di cose interessanti

Un po' di pepe

Tag Archives: Culture

Benvenuti ad Orsara di Puglia

25 Sunday May 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Orsara di Puglia, Puglia

≈ 48 Comments

Tags

Bandiera Arancione, Cittaslow, Culture, Italia, Italian history, Orsara di Puglia, Puglia, San Michele, Southern Italy

View of Orsara di Puglia

View of Orsara di Puglia

Orsara di Puglia is ‘un borgo medioevale incantevole’ (an enchanting medieval village) on the slopes of Monte San Marco in the Dauno Subappenino area at an elevation of 650 m (~2100 ft). It is surrounded by forests, rolling hills, vineyards, wheat fields and olive groves. Until 1927, it was in the province of Avellino (Campania) which is why it is called Orsara di Puglia. In 1951, before mass emigration, the population was over 7,000. Today the permanent population is just under 3,000. I spent the first 27 months of my life here, and I return every year for some ‘aria di montagna’ (fresh mountain air). This post is an introduction…the first of many Orsarese posts!

Orsara di Puglia-NASA Satellite view

Orsara di Puglia-NASA Satellite view

Orsara is built on a site with natural caves, which made it favourable for settlement. There is evidence of settlement in the area in the 11th Century BC, and Greek colonization as early as the 8th Century BC. There are many legends about the origins of Orsara, but my favourite-definitely the coolest-is that it was founded by the Greek hero Diomedes, who came to Puglia after the Trojan War. Legend also has it that a bear and her cubs had a lair in one of the caves Orsara was built on. The name comes from the Latin Ursus (bear) and aria= Ursaria meaning a place of bears.

The oldest part of Orsara, the Centro Storico or historic town center, is built around the Complesso Abbaziale dell’Angelo.  This complex consists of the pre-7th Century cave church Grotta di San Michele Archangelo with a connecting 1527 church, the exquisite Romanesque Chiesa dell’ Annunziata, and Palazzo Baronale.  The last 2 were the former Abbazia di Sant’Angelo (Abbey of the Holy Angel), a monastery built in the 11th-13th Century.  The Abbazia included a hostel for pilgrims and was home to several orders of monks, incuding the Spanish Cavalieri di Calatrava (Knights of Calatrava) who arrived in 1224. The Calatrava expanded the abbazia, including a hospital, and were an important part of Orsara’s history.  Palazzo Baronale is now private homes except for the basement which is an archeological museum.  The Complesso Abbaziale has seasonal opening hours, and can also be visited by appointment.

Complesso Abbaziale dell'Angelo, seen from Piano Paradiso. The tall, tower-like building is the Chiesa dell'Annunziata.

Complesso Abbaziale dell’Angelo, seen from Piano Paradiso. The tall, tower-like building is the Chiesa dell’Annunziata.

Orsara di Puglia is a member of the Slow Food movement Cittaslow. A gastronomic paradise, Orsara has 8 restaurants, 4 pizzerie, an enoteca, a pub and a cooking school http://www.peppezullo.it. Orsara even has its own designated DOC cheese-cacioricotta, and 3 IGT designated wines. Thanks to the maze of steep, windy cobblestone streets and my morning walk to La Montagna Spaccata, I can eat lots yummy food and still fit into my clothes.

Caciocavallo, pecorino, capicollo & cacioricotta

Caciocavallo, pecorino, capicollo & cacioricotta

In 2010, along with Alberobello, Orsara became one of only 6 towns in Puglia to be distinguished with a Bandiera Arancione (orange flag), a seal of quality from the Touring Club Italiano. The Club certifies small inland towns that are welcoming to visitors and have historic, cultural and environmental significance. For more information http://www.paesiarancioni.net (in Italiano) and http://www.bestsmalltownsitaly.com/town/orsara-di-puglia-apulia-south-islands/ (in English). There are now 13 paesi Pugliesi with a Bandiera Arancione designation.

Via Vittorio Emanuele

Via Vittorio Emanuele

Via Buonarroti

Via Buonarroti

Since 1988, Orsara hosts a Festa del Vino the last weekend in June. The Orsara Musica Jazz Festival and Orsara International Jazz Workshop are held the last week in July. Orsara has 2 patron saints and protectors; Aug 5th is the Festa della Madonna della Neve, and Sept 29th the Festa di San Michele Arcangelo. The night between Nov 1st and Nov 2nd is the Festa dei Fucacoste e Cocce Priatorije, an ancient tradition to honour the dead. For more information on events, check Orsara di Puglia’s official website and blog.

Via Principe Amedeo

Via Principe Amedeo

Ci vediamo ad Orsara!  Buon Viaggio, Cristina

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Sbandieratori~Accenti Magazine Photo Contest

04 Sunday May 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Culture, Italia, Orsara di Puglia, Photography, Puglia

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Accenti magazine, Accenti photo contest, Culture, History, Italia, Orsara di Puglia, photography, Puglia

Sbandieratori

The 7th annual Accenti Magazine ‘Capture an Italian Moment’ Photo Competition results were just released at the Accenti Magazine Awards during the Blue Metropolis Montreal International Literary Festival. My photo, ‘Sbandieratori’ came in second place!

This photo was taken in Orsara di Puglia during the ‘Corteo Storico’, a parade in period costume, reenacting the history of the village. These sbandieratori (flag throwers) came from nearby Lucera to perform. Here, they are in between performances, engaged in casual conversation. What struck me about this image were the bold colours and composition of the costumes and flags. I was also curious to know what their conversation was about….was it early Renaissance gossip, or the latest cell phone app?

In Italiano:

Questa foto è stata scattata ad Orsara di Puglia durante il ‘corteo storico’, una sfilata in costume medioevale, che racconta la storia del paese.  Questi sbandieratori sono venuti da Lucera.  Qui li vediamo in attesa di sfilare, impegnati in una conversazione.  Quello che mi ha colpito sono stati I colori vibranti e la composizione che si è create tra I costume e le bandiere.  Ero anche curiosa di sapere di cosa parlavono…..chiacchiere medioevale o dell’uscita di una nuova app per il telefono?

The mission of Accenti, “the magazine with an Italian accent,” and Accenti Online http://www.accenti.ca is to bring together readers and writers around the idea of shared cultural experience, encourage creative expression, and act as a bridge between cultures. The 2015 photo and writing competition is now accepting submissions. If you are interested in finding out more, go to http://www.accenti.ca/photo-contest or http://www.accenti.ca/writing-contest.

The word Sbandieratori is related to the word bandiera (flag) and is pronounced zban∙ dee∙ ear ∙a∙ tow∙ ree. Say it a few times….now say it faster.

Here are a few more photos from the ‘Corteo Storico’ in Orsara di Puglia:

Sbandieratori, corteo storico, Orsara di Puglia

Sbandieratori, corteo storico, Orsara di Puglia

Corteo Storico, Orsara di Puglia

Corteo Storico, Orsara di Puglia

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‘Il Gigante’- Michelangelo’s David

27 Sunday Apr 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Art history, Culture, Firenze, Italia

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

Art, Art history, Culture, Firenze, Italia, Italian history, Michelangelo

Davide
The sculpture of David by Michelangelo Buonarroti is one of the most recognizable pieces of art in the world. David was in progress from 1501-1504, carved from a ginormous piece of ‘flawed’ Carrara marble. It weighed over 6,000 kilos! 2 other sculptors had previously attempted to use it, and there was a big gaping hole going right through it-between where the legs were going to go. It was nicknamed ‘Il Gigante’ and was sitting in the Opera del Duomo (the works yard of Santa Maria del Fiore) for over 30 years. Several other artists had been to see it, but it was considered useless; too tall and too thin on one side for a figure…and then there was that hole.

Michelangelo was already a bit of a minor celebrity, having just completed his first ‘capolavoro’ (masterpiece), La Pietá, in Roma at the age of 25. He convinced the Operai to let him have the marble. He decided to use it for the originally intended subject; David, the boy who killed the Philistine giant Goliath with his slingshot, 1 rock, and a lot of help from God.  Michelangelo strategically planned his figure in contrapposto, with most of the weight on the right leg, so that it would fit precisely around the large hole in the marble. He even had to leave some of the chisel marks on the chest area made by Simone da Fiesole, one of the previous sculptors because it was such a tight fit. David was supposed to go on one of the pedestals at the end of the buttresses on the roofline of Santa Maria del Fiore (often referred to simply as Il Duomo) with 12 other Old Testament sculptures.

David was originally planned for one of these pedestals on the buttresses of Santa Maria del Fiore

David was originally planned for one of these pedestals on the buttresses of Santa Maria del Fiore

When David was completed in 1504, he was so big-9 arms lengths or 3 times human size, it became apparent they were not going to be able to hoist him up to the roofline of Il Duomo! He was so magnificent that it was also thought to be a waste to put him so high up where no one could see him. According to the original art historian, Giorgio Vasari,  ‘To be sure, anyone who sees this statue need not be concerned with seeing any other piece of sculpture done in our times or in any period by any other artist’. Not everyone was a fan though-some said he didn’t look like a boy, he looked like a grown man, others thought he should be wearing armour-or at least something, and there was no head of Goliath at his feet. This David was captured in the moments before slaying Goliath. His right hand is starting to tense, and the contrapposto stance makes it seem like his body could twist to the left to be in line with his head.

A committee was formed to decide where David should live. Members included Leonardo da Vinci, Sandro Botticelli, and Filippino Lippi. They decided to place David on a pedestal outside the Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Firenze in the Piazza della Signoria. This was partly a political statement. David was the ‘little guy’ who defeated the giant. He became of symbol of the new Republic of Firenze, democratic ideals, and a warning to enemies. It was not an accident that his eyes faced Roma. Moving ‘Il Gigante’ took 40 men 4 days to move the distance of less than 1 km from the studio. David was suspended in a sling in a tall cart and rolled over 14 greased logs. The men would take the back log and move it to the front as the cart moved along.

In 1527, during an anti-Medici protest, David’s left arm was broken in 3 pieces by a bench thrown out the window of the Palazzo Vecchio to ward off the protesters. The pieces were picked up by 2 boys who braved the mob. I’ve read in a few places that one of these boys was Giorgio Vasari, who would have been 16 at the time. He doesn’t mention this in his 1560’s bestseller ‘The Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors and Architects’, which makes me think this might just be Renaissance urban legend. The 3 pieces were eventually reattached with copper nails, and the 2 joint lines are visible. In 1873, David was moved to his present home in the Galleria dell’Accademia to prevent further environmental damage.

'Galleria dell'Accademia' 2004. My preferred view of David.

‘Galleria dell’Accademia’ 2004. My preferred view of David.

In 1910, ‘Falso Davide’, as I like to call the replica, was installed outside the Palazzo Vecchio where the original stood for 369 years.

'Falso Davide' as I like to call him, outside the Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria

‘Falso Davide’ as I like to call him, outside the Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria

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Perché questo blog? / Why write a blog?

25 Friday Apr 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Bilingual posts, Blogging, Culture, Inspiration

≈ 19 Comments

Tags

Art, Culture, Inspiration, Italy, Zero to hero

Sono contenta che hai trovato il mio blog/ I’m glad you found my blog. Why did I decide to start writing a blog? I’ve been thinking about it for a long time. The biggest reason is creative inspiration and stimulation. I don’t remember when I didn’t have a passion for words and images. I could always be found with my nose in a book, reading, writing, or sketching. This is a place I can combine all of my interests; writing, art, photography, travel, and exploring Italian culture. I can share my photos, images, and all of the half-drafted ideas I have lying around. Whenever I think of something interesting, I scribble notes down on scraps of paper… post-it notes… menus….the computer, and now even on my phone, because ‘one day’ I’ll write an article about it. Well, ‘one day’ isn’t happening. I also have several emails I keep sending over and over to friends who are planning travel to Italy, and this is a better place to share that information. I have a strong belief in maintaining cultural ties, and I travel to Italy every year. I hope to encourage the same in other ‘italocanadesi’ who read my blog and to connect with others who have a passion for art, Italy,and anything else I think is interesting. I hope you learn something new every time you visit, whether it’s about a new place you’d like to visit, discovering a new artwork, learning a few new words in Italian, or maybe you’ll even be inspired to pick up a brush and starting painting yourself! I might write a few of my posts in Italian, but for now, it will be just little snippets. I’ll apologize in advance for any grammatical errors I might make! I don’t like to use online translating because it makes more mistakes than I do! Let me know if you have any suggestions for new posts. You can read more in ‘About me/Chi sono’  and L’Intervista con Silvia. The name ‘Un po’ di pepe’ means ‘a bit of pepper’….because everything can use some spicing up! Iniziamo l’avventura! / Let’s start the adventure!

In Italiano:
Sono contenta che hai trovato il mio blog! Perché ho iniziato a scrivere un blog? Ho vari motivi. È da tanto tempo che ci sto pensando. Mi piace scrivere, e questo è un posto dove posso scrivere di tutte le cose che mi piacciono. Posso usare tutte quelle cose scritta a metà e poi abbandonate, scritte o schizzate su un pezzetto di carta strappata…su un menù….sul computer, e adesso anche sul telefono, perché ‘un giorno’, queste mi serviranno per scrivere un articolo interessante. Nel frattempo, questo ‘un giorno’ sembra non arrivare mai!
Credo molto nel significato di mantenere legami con le miei radici italiane, e vado in Italia tutti gli anni. Spero con il mio blog di incoraggiare lo stesso interesse in altri italocanadesi. Scriveró di tutto quello che mi piace, soprattutto di arte e cultura italiana. Spero che ogni volta che lo visitarete, vi possiate imparare una cosa nuova…che si tratti di scoprire un’opera d’arte nuova, un posto da visitare, di imparare qualche parola nuova in italiano (o per quelli che parlano già l’italiano, di imparare qualche nuova parola in inglese!) o di essere ispirati a prendere un pennello in mano e cominciare un’opera d’arte tutta vostra! Forse scriveró anche delle volte in Italiano, ma per ora saranno piccolo frammenti. Fatemi sapere se avete qualche suggerimento per nuovi post. Chiedo scusa in anticipo per i miei eventuali errori grammaticali! Potete leggere un po’di più in ‘About me/ Chi sono’  o in L’Intervista con Silvia.

Ponte Vecchio, Firenze. Photo Shannon Milar

Ponte Vecchio, Firenze. Photo Shannon Milar

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