The words quirky and whimsical are not usually used to describe architecture in Roma! Away from crowds, in a residential Roman neighbourhood, is a small, elegant architectural universe with outstanding design features. Ornate residences have floors of different shapes and sizes, a chandelier hangs over the street entrance and a building dedicated to the spider are just a few of these.
Quartiere Coppedè (The Coppedè district or neighborhood) was named after Florentine architect Gino Coppedè (1865-1927). In 1916, he was hired to design a new residential area in Roma for professionals and civil servants- and it appears he was given no guidelines. Gino let his imagination run wild, mixing Stile Liberty, Art Deco, Gothic, Baroque, ancient Greek, Roman, and even Assyro-Babilonian elements into the project.
There are 26 palazzi* (grand buildings) of 3-6 stories and 17 ‘villini’ (small detached private or diplomatic residences) around Piazza Mincio. The area is shaped like a Latin cross, with Fontana delle Rane at the point where the 2 arms of the cross meet (see map below). Gino died just before the project was completed in 1927, with his son in law taking over.
Quartiere Coppede map
From Piazza Buenos Aires, locally known as Piazza Quadrata (square square!), walk through the grand entrance, Arco degli Ambasciatori, also called the Arcone. This is a large, 2 story archway topped with a terrace, connecting 2 ornate buildings, Palazzi degli Ambasciatori. They were originally built as homes for foreign diplomats. Gino Coppedè lived in one of the units. The underside of the archway is intricately carved, and painted cobalt and gold. From this hangs a giant wrought iron chandelier which is lit at night.
Entering through the Arcone, on the right is Palazzo del Ragno (spider building) named after the giant golden spider and web above the entrance. The warm yellow walls also feature brickwork, columns and arches inspired by Assyrian-Babylonian style, and mythological marble creatures such as winged griffins, lions, and gargoyles that stare down menacingly. Hidden Masonic symbols and references to the Temple of Solomon can be found in this and several other buildings.
The complex design of Palazzo del Ragno is dedicated to the industriousness and architectural abilities of the spider and its web.
The appropriately named Villino delle Fate (Little House of the Fairies) Is a complex of 3 villas where everything is completely asymmetrical. It is a tribute to Italian art capitals Roma, Firenze and Venezia, featuring a clock tower, loggias, Florentine arches and frescoes dedicated to Dante, Petrarco, Romolo and Remo, and the lions of Venezia. Villino delle Fate is constructed of marble, brick, travertine, terra cotta, and glass, all surrounded by wrought iron gates and fence.
Palazzo Senza Nome (No Name building) is directly across the piazza from Palazzo del Ragno. a glass and iron lamp hangs above the entrance, which features black and yellow tiles surrounding panelled wood doors.
Fontana delle Rane at the center of Piazza Mincio was built in 1924 as an homage to Bernini’s Fontana delle Tartarughe. The ornate double basin fountain has 12 rane (frogs) and figures spitting out jets of water, which comes from Acqua Marcia, the remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct. It blends in well with the surrounding architecture. In the summer of 1965, the Beatles were playing at the Piper Club** nearby, and allegedly jumped in fully clothed to cool off! Since it was 1965, there is no photo evidence. If anyone runs into Paul McCartney, please fact-check this! The historic Piper Club is still operating at Via Tagliamento 9, just outside of Coppedè. Giorgio Meloni was once a bartender there.
Movies have been filmed in Coppedè, including Dario Argento’s cult horror classics ‘L’uccello dalle piume di cristallo’(The bird with crystal plumage) (1970), and Inferno (1980), because of the Gothic, mysterious vibe, especially at night. The director lives just a few blocks away. In 2021, the area was used to film scenes for ‘Gucci’.
Coppedè is mainly private residences, so unless you know someone who lives there, it is not possible to see the interiors -but I have heard they are beautiful and unique. There are many embassies in Coppedè’s Via Brenta and the surrounding area. These include South Africa, Ivory Coast, Morocco, Republic of Congo, Lesotho, Turkey, Austria, New Zealand, Bolivia, Chile, Estonia. This is a chic, extremely expensive area to live!
Quartiere Coppedè is north of Roma’s city center in the Trieste /Salario area. It is about a 20-30 min taxi ride from Stazione Termini. Buses 63, 86, 92, and tram 3 and 19 stop at Piazza Buenos Aires, in front of Santa Maria Addolorata, the National Church of Argentina in Roma. The Arcone is 1 block away and visible from the church. My journey involved the Metro B line (Blue) to Policlinico, exiting onto Viale Regina Margherita, then taking tram 19 to Piazza Buenos Aires.
It can take less than an hour to walk around Quartiere Coppedè, but do not rush it. Take extra time to really look at and appreciate the details. Architectural nerds, photographers, and people who have been to Roma a few times and already seen the main sights will love it. A visit can be combined with Villa Torloni, a short walk away.
Parola Italiano del giorno/Italian word of the day, Stravagante =whimsical. Try to use that in a sentence! Ciao, Cristina
*The word palazzo is often translated into English as ‘palace’, which it could be, but it usually refers to a building, or a grand building.
