Tags
Domenico Modugno, Guido il Flâneur, Nel blu dipinto di blu, Puglia, Southern Italy, Spiaggia Lama Monachile, Vicolo della Poesia
Polignano a Mare, with its whitewashed buildings and stunning cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, is a photographer’s dream. Photo opportunities are waiting around every sun drenched corner. Since writing about Polignano a Mare in 2016, I have been there several more times. Most visits were daytrips, but the last 2 times, I stayed for 2 days.
One of these visits, I was invited by family to meet up to spend a half-day on a boat. Going just for a daytrip, I would have missed the last bus from Foggia back to Orsara di Puglia, so I stayed the night. My photos taken from the other side of the water, and Vito’s backflip really need to be shared! 
I booked my accomodation only a few days in advance. It was right in the centro storico, near the panoramic Terrazza Santo Stefano, in an alley full of hanging wicker baskets.
The roof had beautiful sea views and my room looked like the inside of a square trullo. I liked it so much I stayed there again!
The roof was also a great place to watch the sunset over Polignano a Mare.
Grotta Palazzese is a famous cave restaurant in Polignano, overlooking the sea. I did not eat there, but I did see it from the water and from the caves below by boat. 
What did I eat in Polignano? Lots of good stuff, but I will only mention my favourites. The best take away panino ever is at ‘Number 1 Pucceria’.
Puccia con polpo arrostito, burrata, rucola e pomodorini…Puccia, a traditional bread roll of the Salento area, with grilled octopus, burrata, rucola and cherry tomatoes. Yum! I took it to the beach with me.
My favourite dinner in Polignano was ravioli di grano arso con burrata, menta e cozze fritte…Grano arso ravioli filled with burrata, topped with mint and fried clams-with a glass of Negroamaro rosato, of course.
In my previous post, I wrote about Vicolo della poesia and ‘Guido Il Flaneur’ who painted poetry on the walls, doors and stairs of Polignano. Well…..I discovered that the poetry gets ‘updated’.
I took a photo of these same stairs in 2016, but the poetry has changed. Sadly, ‘Guido’ passed away in November 2024, and I do not know if anyone has taken over his duties yet.
On daytrips, because of running to catch the train or running out of parking time, I had not seen the statue of Domenico Modugno on Pietra Piatta (flat rock). Born and raised in Polignano a Mare, his song ‘Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu’, commonly known as ‘Volare’ won the 1958 Festival di Sanremo and placed 3rd in the 1958 Eurovision Song Contest. In 1959, it won both record and song of the year at the first annual Grammy Awards. Yes-an Italian song won the first Grammys in these 2 major categories!
The statue portrays Domenico Modugno with his back to the sea and his arms wide open as if he is flying. In the photo, the statue is visible from the water at the top of the stairs. In 2024, there was a giant swing installation in the piazza, so you could volare too! It was fun, but unfortunately, I tried and failed to take a selfie while swinging, so there is no photo evidence of my flight.
Polignano really lights up at night. ‘Nel Blu dipinto di Luci’ is Via Roma’s permanent light installation featuring the lyrics of Nel blu dipinto del blu.
Sing the words while walking past them during a passeggiata. Here they are if you want to practice:
‘Penso che un sogno così non ritorni mai più
Mi dipingevo le mani e la faccia di blu
poi d’improvviso venivo dal vento rapito
e incominciavo a volare nel cielo infinito.
Volare oh, oh
Cantare oh, oh
Nel blu dipinto di blu
Felice di stare lassù
E volavo, volavo felice più in alto del sole
Ed ancora più su
Mentre il mondo pian piano spariva lontano laggiù
Una musica dolce suonava soltanto per me….’
Tiny Spiaggia Cala Monachile is gorgeous, but crowded. There is little room to squeeze in anywhere on the pebbly beach and the cliffside—but there are other places to enjoy the water that are not so crowded.
200 m north, past the Modugno staue, is Spiaggia del Grottone with its natural swimming pool carved out of the rock. This is a gorgeous, warm, protected area to swim, and there is a lot of room on the rocks and a wooden terrace area.
Walk a bit farther along and you will reach Spiaggia Cala Paura, a nice area to swim in the clear water and hang out on the rocks or the boardwalk.

Like Alberobello and San Gimignano, Polignano a Mare is a place that totally lives up to the hype! Was it busy? Yes, tiny Spiaggia Cala Monachile was crowded, with no room to squeeze in on the beach—but there are other places to enjoy the water that are not so crowded, as I mentioned earlier. My visits to Polignano have all been in August, which is one of the busiest months. It was still not as crowded as many other places in Italy. Do not go during the Red Bull cliff diving event in September. Like many towns in Southern Italy, shops are still closed during the pausa pranzo from 1-4:30 pm. This is a good sign that it has not been completely taken over by tourism! It is definitely worth spending the night in Polignano, since you get to be there before and after the daytrippers, when it is quieter.
Polignano a Mare is 40 km southeast of Bari and easy to get to, as it is on Strada Statale 16 (SS 16) the main coastal road. Most of the centro storico is pedestrian only. Parking is available at the train station. It is also super easy to get to Polignano without a car, since it is on the Adriatico train route from Bari to Lecce.
From Bari Centrale, Polignano a Mare is a 20 minute train ride and costs €3. It is 500m, or a 10 minute walk from the train station to the Centro Storico. Just follow the crowd of other people getting off the train. The town of Monopoli is 8 minutes further by train.
Many of the fotos for Il Pumo Pugliese were taken in Polignano. Have you been to Polignano a Mare? Buon viaggio, Cristina