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~ …… (oon∙poh∙dee∙PEH∙peh) Cristina writes about interesting stuff /Cristina scrive di cose interessanti

Un po' di pepe

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Il Bicerin

23 Saturday Nov 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Mangiamo!, Recipes

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Northern Italy, Piemonte, Torino, Traditional recipes

November weather is dark and dreary, and has me craving a nice warm Bicerin. Bicerin (bee • SHEH • reen) is the official, historic drink of Torino.  The Bicerin was invented in 1763, at the newly opened Caffè Confetteria Al Bicerin in Piazza della Consolata.

Al Bicerin’s strategic location opposite the Santuario della Consolata, where the King and Royal Family attended Mass on Sundays, made it a popular spot and the beverage became well-known.

The secret recipe is made with local dark chocolate, espresso and frothed fior di latte, and served in a small stemmed glass.  The drink is actually named after the glass, Bicerin being local dialetto for bicchierino, meaning small glass. The glass is clear so that all 3 layers are visible.  A Bicerin is not supposed to be stirred, so that the temperature and texture of each layer can be tasted separately and blend on the palate.

The facade of Al Bicerin is still original and stepping inside is like travelling back in time. The counter, the cabinet filled with glass jars of Confetti and the woodwork is from the 19th Century.

I went to Al Bicerin twice while I was in Torino.  Since the weather was nice, I sat outside both times, but the inside is inviting and cozy.  Perfect for a cold, wet November day. The photo below was taken just before closing.

Count Camillo Cavour, the first Italian Prime Minister always sat in the same corner on his daily visit to Al Bicerin. Now there is a photo of him in his angolo. Other famous patrons include Picasso, Puccini, Nietzsche, Alexandre Dumas, Umberto Eco, and Ernest Hemingway, who apparently called the Bicerin one of the 100 things in the world worth saving!

A fun fact about Caffè Confetteria Al Bicerin is that since 1763, it has always been managed by women!

In 2001, the Bicerin was finally recognized by the region of Piemonte as a traditional Piemontese beverage. Order with a plate of local cookies, which can include canestrelli, torcetti, krumiri, savoiardi and baci di dama.

Bicerin is now served in all of the historic caffè places in Torino but it will be slightly different than the original recipe at Caffè Confetteria Al Bicerin, located at Piazza della Consolata 5 in the Quadrilatero area.

Other historic places to have Bicerin in Torino include:

Baratti e Milano- Piazza Castello 29

Caffè Torino- Piazza San Carlo 29

Caffè Fiorio- Via Po 8/C

Farmacia del Cambio- Piazza Carignano 2

Pepino Piazza Carignano- 8

Pfatish Via Paolo Scacchi- 42

I did some experimenting at home to try and reproduce a Bicerin.  My final product did not taste or look exactly the same, but it was delicious, and the taste-testing ‘research’ was fun.  It takes a bit of juggling to have all 3 layers ready to assemble at once, so do not get discouraged if the first attempt does not look pretty.

Cristina’s attempt at Bicerin

Ingredients:

  • 60 ml (2 oz) light cream*
  • 60 ml (2 oz) chopped 70% dark chocolate, ideally Venchi or other quality brand**
  • 60 ml (2 oz) freshly made espresso doppio/double shot
  • 60 ml (2 oz) frothed whole milk or light cream (must be cold)*

A 300-360 ml (10-12 oz) clear, heat-proof stemmed glass

Instructions:

  • Prepare heat-proof glass by warming with hot water
  • Prepare caffettiera for espresso
  • Pour light cream* and chopped chocolate into a small pan over low heat and whisk until thick.  Meanwhile, make espresso
  • Shake milk/cream in a small jar for 2-3 minutes

Assemble the Bicerin:

  • Pour hot chocolate into warm glass
  • Using the back of a spoon, carefully pour espresso towards the side of glass
  • Carefully add shaken milk/cream
  • Do not stir!

*Consistency wise, there is no North American equivalent to Italian fior di latte (milk cream) or panna (cream).  I experimented using combinations of whipping cream and milk.  My best results were using a mixture of half whipping cream and half whole milk (3%).  This is what I recommend using for both the hot chocolate and the topping. 1 part whipping cream and 2 parts whole milk also works.

**A Torino produced chocolate such as Venchi is best to use.  I used Guillard as it was the best good quality chocolate I had available.

Espresso cookies go perfectly with Bicerin.  Buon appetito, Cristina

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Mercato Porta Palazzo

03 Sunday Nov 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Photography, Travel

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

Italian food, Northern Italy, Piemonte, Torino

Torino’s Mercato Porta Palazzo in Piazza della Repubblica is the largest open-air market in Europe. My first morning in Torino, I took a walk through the mercato with Lucia from turinepi.  While we walked, I took so many photos of the produce and the bancarelle -the market stalls, that I had to dedicate an entire post to them. Established in 1835, Porta Palazzo is a collection of outdoor and covered market spaces. The bancarelle host vendors from all over, selling products from food and wine to flowers, clothing, shoes and housewares.

The covered glass pavilion is the local farmers market.  Look at the gorgeous radicchio.  This vendor with the hat is Lucia’s favourite.The produce is surprisingly well-priced.  Porta Palazzo is a clean and lively space.  The Torinesi call it Porta Pila, and do much of their shopping here. The space is huge, so there can be thousands, of people, especially on Saturdays, when many shoppers even drive in from France!A good place to snack, or to taste and see local food, as well as other ethnic specialties. Porta Palazzo is an explosion of colour and a feast for all of the senses-flavours, aromas, colours, sounds and languages.
Formaggi can be found from Piemonte and every region of Italia

Besides the bancarelle and pavilion, there are also 4 structures on the site: Mercato Ittico e Alimentare, built in 1826, L’antica Tettoia dell’Orologio, a 1916 metal art deco building, Mercato dell’abbigliamento-the clothing market, and Mercato Centrale di Torino, built in 2011.  A food lover’s Heaven! Also, more formaggi!

Mercato Porta Palazzo is a 5 minute walk from Piazza Castello.  From Piazza Castello, take Via Garibaldi, turn right onto Via Milano, then walk straight until you reach Piazza della Repubblica and the mercato.

Mercato Porta Palazzo is open from 8:00-12:00 Tuesday to Friday, and 7:00-19:30 Saturday. The mercato is closed Sunday and Monday.

More info on Mercato Porta Palazzo can be found on their website.

Buon viaggio, Cristina

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Torino

13 Sunday Oct 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Architecture, Italia, Photography, Travel tips

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

Bicerin, Italian history, Northern Italy, Piemonte, UNESCO World Heritage Sites

I had no expectations when I visited Torino.  I knew that many of my paesani had moved to the area in the 1970-80’s to look for work, but did not know much about the city itself.  Torino turned out to be a pleasant surprise-a truly underrated, overlooked city on the banks of the river Po, at the foothills of the Alps. With a population of almost 850,000, it is the fourth largest city in Italia but practically unknown to English speaking travellers. It is much less crowded, quieter and cheaper than most other major cities.

L’Universita’ di Torino

I arrived in Torino by highspeed train (TGV) from Paris, to attend an AICW conference at the Università di Torino.  Once the conference started, I only had the evenings to explore the city, so could not visit any buildings/museums.  This is why many of my photos were taken at night!  I need to return to Torino to visit the indoor things!

Named for the ancient Taurini people, the Roman Colony of Taurinorum was founded in 28 BC.  Via Garibaldi, the main shopping street traces the exact path of the ancient Roman street or Decumanus.

Torino was the capital of the Duchy of Savoia, the political center of the Risorgimento (birth of the nation) leading to unification of Italy, and the first capital of the Kingdom of Italy after unification in 1861. The capital moved to Roma in 1865.  Torino was also the center of anti-fascist movements and the Italian resistance movement during WW2.  A lot of history here!

Elegant and sophisticated, Torino has an old world feel, like Paris or Prague, but with an Italian accent.  There is a definite French influence from the Savoia family, even on the local dialetto. The stunning architecture in the centro includes Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, Romanesque and Art Nouveau. Most buildings were built between the 16-18th centuries.  In 1997, the historical Center of Torino and residences of the Royal House of Savoia became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Torino’s centro, the largest pedestrian area in Europe, is easy to navigate. A defining characteristic of Torino’s architecture are the portici (porticoes). 18 km (7 miles) of portici provide shade in summer and shelter from rain, snow and wind.  12.4 km are continuous.  According to legend, King Vittorio Emanuele I wanted Torino to be elegant and also wanted to go on his daily walk to the river Po without getting wet.  So he had the portici built -and now everyone can window shop in all weather conditions.  A whole day can be devoted to walking the portici. Torinesi use them a lot!

Torino is known for, the Shroud of Turin, artisanal chocolate, museums, Royal Palazzi of Savoia, FIAT, Juventus, 2006 winter Olympics, Eurovision 2022, and home to the automotive industry with headquarters for Fiat, Lancia and Alfa Romeo. Torino is also the birthplace of Italian caffè culture, aperitivo, Nutella, Ferrero Rocher, gianduja, Lavazza, FIAT, Vermouth and the Slow food movement!

There are many large piazze, full of amazing architectural details, chocolate shops and places to have aperitivo.  Piazza Castello has the Royal Palaces, Palazzo Reale and Palazzo Madama.  Palazzo Madama was the residence of 2 Savoia queens, which explains the name.  It was also the 1st Senate of Italy.  Since 1934 it is a museum of ancient art-although mostly from middle-ages to 18th Century.  Palazzo Reale at the north end, with iron gates contains Armeria Reale, Galleria Sabauda and the Museo di Antichità. The Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento (unification museum) is in Palazzo Carignano.

I had the day before the conference free and met local expert Lucia Hannau from Turinepi for a morning walking tour.  We started in Il Quadrilatero, the oldest part of city, dating back to Roman times.  Piazza della Consolata is home to Caffè Al Bicerin since 1763. They make it in other historic bars, but this is the home of the original Bicerin- with the accompanying plate of local cookies. Bicerin is the iconic drink of Torino, with 3 layers, chocolate, caffè and frothed milk-no stirring!  Stay tuned for a future post! Santuario della Consolata, is across the piazza.  The Baroque exterior looks more like a neoclassical temple, the interior ornate and colourful, gilded and decorated with marble of different colours.

We ended at Mercato Porta Palazzo, Europe’s largest open-air market. My many photos will need a separate post. I had time for only 1 museum visit after my walk with Lucia, and it was Museo Egizio–the world’s oldest Egyptian museum and the largest collection of Egyptology outside of Cairo. Buy €14 tickets online as numbers entering at one time is limited.  If you go to Torino, do not miss this! Stay tuned for a future post.

The 167 m (550 ft) tall Mole Antonelliana is featured on the back side of the 2 € coin. Mole means ‘big mound’ and Antonelli was the architect who kept making it taller.  Originally planned as a synagogue, it barely escaped bombing during WW2.  Since 2000 it houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, an interactive cinema museum and the tallest museum in the world. It is also the tallest unreinforced brick building in the world (without steel girder skeleton). The top has impressive views of Torino and the Alps.  

The Holy Shroud (Sindone di Torino) is a linen cloth said to have covered the body of Jesus.  An important icon for pilgrims, kept in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, but only displayed for the Jubilee every 25 years.  It will be on display in 2025.

Autumn is a perfect time to visit Piemonte, especially for the seasonal food….zucca, porcini, castagne, tartufo bianco, salsiccia,tajarin and agnolotti del plin.

Tajarin integrale con porcini, salsicce e formaggio Piemontese

Torino has a chocolate festival in November and the Salone dei Libri in May. Milano is only 1 hour by train. Stay 3-4 days if you can, as there is a lot to see in Torino!  I definitely recommend a walking tour with Lucia, Bicerin and the train from Paris!

Buon Viaggio, Cristina

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Catanzaro, Calabria

15 Sunday Sep 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Amici e Famiglia, Italia

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Calabria, Catanzaro Lido, Scolacium, Southern Italy, Soverato, Squillace

Calabria for beginners-I finally made it to Calabria!  Just a little slice of it, as an unexpected detour!  I have been wanting to see Calabria for years, but it never seemed to work out.  My amica Rosetta, lives in Northern Italia but spends the summers in Calabria.  She saw on a Facebook post that I was in Puglia and wrote me a comment ‘Vienici a trovare in Calabria’.  Of course, I said ‘si!’ and even managed to find a ride from one of my paesani who lives in Catanzaro Lido. Sometimes the stars just align.

Calabria, the ‘toe’ and ‘foot’ of the Italian boot, is one of the lesser travelled areas of the country, and also one of the least expensive to visit.  I was there during the last week of July and it was not crowded where I was.  Calabria is known for rocky coastlines, crystal clear water, beautiful beaches, ancient mountain villages, castles and archeological sites.  I saw all of the above.I only went to a small area of Calabria on the Ionian Sea (east coast) around the Golfo di Squillace, in the province of Catanzaro. This is the narrowest part of Calabria, so it is possible to drive to the west coast, to Tropea, in an hour and a half.  My friends are in Squillace Lido, and as soon as I arrived, we went to Catanzaro Lido for the Festa della Madonna di Porto Salvo.  The highlight of the festa was a sea procession.  The Madonna was in the large red-hulled boat and all the other boats followed.

Rosetta’s back yard was heavenly, with an olive tree and a view of the Ionian Sea.  She decided we had to wake up at 0543 to watch l’alba, the sunrise.  I am not a morning person, but it was totally worth getting up for, as you can see.

Every morning, we went to the beach -to Squillace Lido, and everyone I met-both on the beach, under an ombrellone, or in the water-was a cousin of Rosetta or her husband Enrico!  Some of these cugini lived in the area and some had moved to other parts of Italia, returning for the summer.  What an amazing thing!  It was so hot, I stayed in the water most of the time.  The sand was coarse, and my feet had a nice daily exfoliation.Even on the beach in Calabria, my Cinquecento radar was on high alert!

Squillace (skwee•LAH•cheh) population ~3500, was originally the Greek colony of Scylletium and then the Roman town of Scolacium.  I visited the Parco Archeologico Scolacium, which was formerly a large olive farm and orchard by the sea.  The site has Roman, Byzantine and Norman ruins.  It was discovered in the 1800’s by farmers, but not excavated until 1965. The residence of the former owner, Baron Mazza, is now the museum and you can also walk through the old olive mill.  The statues in the museum are covered in scrapes made by farm implements!  Ouch! Please read my friend Karen in Calabria’s post about Scolacium, she took better photos than mine.

Only a small part of the site has been excavated and it is still ongoing.  There are extensive mosaics that get worked on, then covered again until there is time and $ to excavate some more. Surrounding this magnificent olive tree, you can see stones ready to be excavated.Called ‘the pearl of the Ionian Sea’, Soverato was recently named the 3rd most beautiful beach in Calabria.  Soverato, population ~9000, is known for its beaches, boardwalk and nightlife.  I visited for an evening stroll along the boardwalk.  The beach looked almost otherworldly before sunset!

This night shot was taken from Baia dell’Est where we had pizza. Caminia is right below, then Pietragrande, and Soverato in the far distance. Below is the daytime version of this view.

What did I bring back from Calabria?  Peperoncini, also known as ‘Viagra Calabrese‘, Bergamotto-the citrus fruit used to flavour Earl Grey tea, and the famous cipolla rossa di Tropea -Tropea red onions.  This is where I bought my goodies.  Behind the Lanzellotti bancarella is a pepper tree-growing pepe rosso-red peppercorns!  Un po’di pepe!

Getting back to Orsara di Puglia was not so easy.  My options were to go to Lamezia Terme, take the train to Napoli and then take the bus to Foggia and another bus to Orsara, or take a 7.5 hour overnight bus from Catanzaro Lido to Foggia.  I chose the overnight bus so I could have an extra day at the beach!  At 7am my cugina met me for colazione in Foggia, then I took the bus to Orsara.  As mamma would say ‘una sfacchinata’!

Calabria seems to be even more badly connected with transportation than Puglia! Mannaggia! This makes it harder to get around without renting a car, but it is also one of the reasons these areas are less crowded and less pricey.  Tropea was apparently extremely crowded this year, as it has been getting a lot of attention since 2021. Despite the lack of convenient transportation, I will definitely be going back to see more of Calabria some time in the future!

Grazie to Rosetta and Enrico for inviting me to visit their little corner of paradise in Calabria!  Ciao, Cristina

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Il Pumo Pugliese

25 Sunday Aug 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Bilingual posts, Italian Folklore, Puglia

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Italian lucky charms, Portafortuna, Pugliese Traditions, Pumo, Pumo Pugliese, Southern Italy

The Pumo is an artisanal decorative ceramic object in the form of a bud just about to flower, enclosed by acanthus leaves. It symbolizes the capacity to regenerate and form new life.  The acanthus leaves, the same ones found on ancient Greek and Roman Corinthian columns, symbolize long life and immortality.  For these reasons the pumo is a traditional Pugliese good luck charm, providing protection and bringing prosperity, happiness, good fortune and fertility.

The name pumo comes from the latin words pomum (fruit) and pumum (pine cone) and is tied to the cult of the goddess Pomona, protector of fruit.

Centuries ago, noble Pugliese families used pumi (plural) as ornaments on building facades, staircases, balconies, and at the foot of the bed of newly married couples. They were also frequently given as wedding gifts.  Pumi were originally only available to wealthy families, since they were the only ones who could afford decorative ceramics.  Today the pumo is an emblem of Puglia and is often used as a piece of jewellery, a bomboniera (wedding favour) or a souvenir from Puglia.   Sometimes they are in the shape of a rose bud or pine cone and can even be room fragrance diffusers, decorative lamps, candleholders or bottles.

In Italiano

Il Pumo è un oggetto decorativo artigianale in ceramica a forma di un bocciolo in procinto di sbocciare, chiuso tra foglie di acanto. Simboleggia la capacità di rigenerarsi e formare nuova vita. Le foglie di acanto, le stesse che si trovano sulle antiche colonne corinzie greche e romane, simboleggiano lunga vita e immortalità. Per queste ragioni il pumo è un portafortuna tradizionale pugliese, che fornisce protezione e porta prosperità, felicità, buona fortuna e fertilità.

Il nome pumo deriva dalle parole latine pomum (frutto) e pumum (pigna) ed è legato al culto della dea Pomona, protettrice della frutta.

Secoli fa, le famiglie nobili pugliesi utilizzavano i pumi come ornamenti sulle facciate degli palazzi, sulle scale, sui angoli delle ringhiere dei balconi e ai piedi del letto delle coppie di novelli sposi. Venivano anche spesso offerti come regali di nozze. I pumi erano originariamente disponibili solo per le famiglie ricche, poiché erano le uniche che potevano permettersi ceramiche decorative.Oggi il pumo è un emblema della Puglia e viene spesso utilizzato come gioiello, bomboniera o souvenir pugliese.  A volte ha la forma di un bocciolo di rosa o di una pigna e può anche essere un diffusore di fragranze per ambienti, una lampada decorativa, un portacandele o una bottiglia.

Buona fortuna, Cristina

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Artemisia Gentileschi

08 Monday Jul 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Art history, Firenze, Inspiration, Roma

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

autoritratto, Baroque art, Caravagisti, Casa Buonarroti, Orazio Gentileschi

Artemisia Gentileschi was born July 8, 1593, 431 years ago today.  One of the greatest artists of the Baroque period, she is best known for using her paintbrush to create empowered female subjects, portraying them from a female perspective, in ways male artists rarely had. Rather than sitting passively, Artemisia’s women are active participants, strong, capable and defiant.

Introduced to art and trained by her father Orazio Gentileschi, an early follower of the dramatic style of Caravaggio, Artemisia worked along with her 3 younger brothers.  She was the only one to show talent and interest, producing her own work by age 15. In 1610, at age 17, she painted her earliest surviving work ‘Susanna and the Elders’ which for years was incorrectly attributed to Orazio. Unlike other painters’ versions, her Susanna is distraught and shields herself from the oglers, as an early depiction of sexual harassment. Artemisia painted this subject 7 times.

Susanna and the Elders (1610)

In 1611 Orazio decorated a palazzo in Rome with painter Agostino Tassi.  He hired Tassi to tutor 17-year-old Artemisia to help refine her painting skills.  During one of their sessions, he raped her.  They started a relationship, since she believed they were going to be married, as societal norms of the time required.  When it became apparent that Tassi was not going to marry Artemisia, Orazio took the unusual route of pressing charges against him for rape.  The trial went on for 7 months, revealing scandalous details -that Tassi had an affair with his sister-in-law and allegedly hired bandits to murder his missing wife.  Artemisia was subjected to a gynecological exam, and tortured with thumbscrews to verify the truthfulness of her testimony!  Luckily there was no permanent damage to her fingers and this did not affect her ability to paint. Tassi was convicted, and sentenced to 2 years in prison.  He was also exiled from Roma, but this was never enforced.

Judith Slaying Holofernes 1620 Galleria degli Uffizi, Firenze

After this ordeal, many of Artemisia’s paintings feature women being attacked or in positions of power, seeking revenge. In 1612 she painted her first of 6 versions of Judith Slaying Holofernes, which is in Museo Capodimonte, Napoli.  The 1620 version in the Galleria degli Uffizi, Firenze is ‘bloodier’ than the first one. I like to imagine Artemisia having a scientific discussion with Galileo about realistic blood spatter patterns!  Below is Caravaggio’s 1598-99 version of the scene, which is a masterpiece, but Judith looks like the 90 pound weakling who is worried about breaking a nail or getting blood on her dress, and her servant just stands there.  In Artemisia’s version, both women mean business, practically sitting on Holofernes to get the job done. 

Judith Beheading Holofernes Caravaggio 1598-99 Palazzo Barberini

After the trial, Orazio arranged for Artemisia to marry artist Pierantonio Stiattesi and they moved to his home city Firenze, where she had a successful career as an artist and an impressive clientele.  She had the support of Cosimo II de Medici and was friends with Galileo.

Allegory of Inclination (1615) Casa Buonarroti

At age 21, Artemisia was the first woman accepted into the prestigious Firenze Accademia delle Arte del Disegno.  This was a major accomplishment!  She was now able to sign her own contracts and purchase art materials without permission from her husband!  In 1615, she was commissioned to paint one of the ceiling frescoes at Casa Buonarroti, former home of Michelangelo, being turned into a museum by his great-nephew. Artemisia was paid more than the male artists working on the frescoes were! ‘Allegory of Inclination’, like many of her paintings, was likely a self-portrait.  Why self-portraits?  The model is free and always available!

Self-portrait, Galleria Barberini 1630-35

In 1618 Artemisia had a daughter named Prudentia, the only one of her 5 children to survive infancy.  She trained Prudentia as an artist, although none of her work survives that we know of.  Artemisia had an affair with Florentine nobleman Francesco Maria di Niccolo Maringhi, which is documented in a series of 36 letters, discovered in 2011.  Her husband also corresponded with Maringhi, who helped support them financially.  Fed up with her husband’s financial and legal issues, she returned to Roma with her daughter in 1621-1626.  Artemisia continued to be influenced by Caravaggio as she worked with some of his followers, Carravagisti, including Simon Vonet.  She also spent 3 years in Venezia working on commissions.

Sansone e Dalila/Samson and Delilah 1630-38 Galleria d’Italia, Napoli

Artemisia relocated to Napoli in 1630 and worked with many well-known artists such as Massimo Stanzione. In 1638, she was invited to the court of Charles I of England in London, where Orazio had been court painter for 12 years. He was the only Italian painter in London and the first to introduce the style of Caravaggio there.  Orazio and Artemisia had not seen each other for 17 yrs.  She worked alongside Orazio on an allegorical fresco for Greenwich, residence of the Queen. Orazio was 75 and needed her help to complete the work before he died suddenly in 1639.  Artemisia painted some of her most famous works while in England, including Self Portrait as Allegory of Painting (1639), which she likely painted with 2 mirrors, one on either side of her. In 2017 I had the opportunity to see this painting at the Vancouver Art Gallery exhibit from the Royal Collection.

Self-portrait as the Allegory of Painting 1638-39 Royal Collection, Windsor Castle

Once she finished her commissions, Artemisia left England before 1642, returning to Napoli.  The last letter from her agent was dated 1650, which implies she was still painting.  There is additional evidence to suggest she was still working in Napoli in 1654 and likely died during the plague in 1656.

Artemisia’s legacy is complex and full of controversy.  She defied the odds and was well respected as an artist during her own lifetime.  She thrived in a time when women had few opportunities to pursue artistic training, let alone actually work as professional artists.  After her death, Artemisia Gentileschi was almost omitted from the history of art.  The fact that her style was much like her father’s and some of her works were incorrectly attributed to Orazio and even Caravaggio may have something to do with that.  More likely, those documenting art history did not think a woman was worth mentioning.

In the early 1900’s, her work was rediscovered and championed by Caravaggio scholar Roberto Longhi.  In all accounts of her life, Artemisia’s talent and achievements are overshadowed by the story of her rape and trial.  This is partly due to a 1947 over-sexualized fictional novel by Longhi’s wife Anna Banti.  1970’s and 80’s feminist art historians began to reassess Artemisia and her reputation, focusing on her significant artistic achievements and influence on the course of art history rather than events that happened in her life.

A 1976 exhibition ‘Women artists 1550-1950’ proposed that Artemisia was the first female in the history of Western art to make a significant and important contribution to the art of her time.  Following centuries of near obscurity, today Artemisia’s paintings are again celebrated around the world.  An ornate plate rests in her honour at the table of contemporary feminist art as part of Judy Chicago’s iconic 1979 work ‘The Dinner Party’.

Artemisia has left us with 60 paintings, not including collaborations with Orazio.  40 of them feature females from the Bible or mythology. Only 19 of her paintings are signed and 13 are in Private collections!  Can you imagine owning your own Artemisia??? Famous quotes from Artemisia include ‘My illustrious lordship, I’ll show you what a female can do’ and ‘As long as I live, I will have control of my being’.

Enjoy the Monologue ‘Becoming Artemisia'(May 2024) directed by Antonio D’Alfonso, text by Mary Melfi (17 min).

Google doodle of Artemisia GentileschiBuon Compleanno Artemisia!

Photo credits: Susanna and the Elders and Allegory of Inclination, Wikipedia

Google Doodle by Hélène Leroux, July 8, 2020

All other photos taken by Cristina

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Cavalli di San Marco

23 Sunday Jun 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Art history, Italia

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Piazza San Marco, Sculpture, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Veneto, Venezia

I Cavalli di San Marco are a set of gilded copper statues of 4 horses, originally attached to a quadriga, a four horse carriage used in chariot racing.  Also known as the ‘Triumphal Quadriga’ and the ‘Horses of the Hippodrome of Constantinople’. The sculptures date from classical antiquity.  Because of the style, they were thought to be Greek, by the 4th C BC sculptor Lysippos, but carbon dating shows they are from the 1st-3rd C AD, which makes them 1700-1900 years old. An 8th century document mentions ‘four gilt horses that stand above the Hippodrome brought from the island of Chios by Theodosius II’ (AD 408-450)

The sculptures are expressive and magnificent!  The realism is incredible-bulging veins, rippling muscles, flaring nostrils, raised hooves, and the way they are in sync, with their heads turned to each other.  Streaks of gold leaf are still visible on their bodies.  The poet Francesco Petrarca (1304-1374) remarked ‘they seem to be neighing and pawing at the ground, as if alive’.  They are made using the lost wax method.  A wax sculpture is used to make a mold, usually of clay.  The sculpture is then cast with the mold. Each cavallo weighs close to 900 kg (2000 lbs).  Very few metal masterpieces have survived from antiquity as they were all melted down in medieval times to make weapons.

There is a lot of history to this foursome representing Apollo, God of the sun.  They were likely made on the Greek island of Chios and brought by Emperor Constantine to the new capital Constantinople (modern Istanbul) in 330 AD to adorn the chariot racetrack or by Theodosius 100 years later.  During the sack and looting of Constantinople in 1204, the Venetians took them as spoils of war. The cavalli were in storage in the Arsenale and in 1254 were placed on the terrace above the main door to the Basilica San Marco, as a symbol of military and political power. Small marble columns held up their feet.  Collars on the horses were added to hide where they had to be decapitated for transport from Constantinople.  They lived on the terrace for almost 600 years, until Napoleon looted them in 1797, taking them to Paris. In Paris, they were installed outside the Louvre on top of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, along with a new quadriga. Upon the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, they were actually returned to the terrace in Venezia by the Duke of Wellington- minus their ruby pupils.  Replicas are now on the Paris monument. The cavalli were restored in 1977 and to protect from environmental oxidation they made their final journey in the early 1980’s.  The cavalli were moved inside the Basilica to the Loggia dei Cavalli and replicas made by Fonderia Battaglia di Milano were placed on the terrace

Classical art has a long history as a trophy of war taken by victorious generals.  Greater than art, it had power, and was a symbol of triumph, survival and to how each civilization built on the previous one.  Regardless of how you feel about looted art, for these 4 brothers, it is what saved them.  There is almost zero chance they would have survived if left in Constantinople.  They would have been melted down for ammunition or building materials.

Do not miss a visit to these beauties. Admission to the Basilica San Marco on site is €3 plus admission to the Museum, outdoor terrace and Loggia dei cavalli €7 for a total of €10.

Tickets can also be purchased online in advance for the Basilica €6, and the museum €9 for a total of €15. Have you seen I Cavalli di San Marco?

*Photo credit-Prethika Kumar!

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Panzerotti

26 Sunday May 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Puglia, Recipes

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

brea, Cucina povera, Cucina Pugliese, Italian food, pan, Pizze fritte, Pugliese Traditions, Southern Italy

Panzerotti are a popular Pugliese street food.  In the spirit of ‘cucina povera’ where nothing is wasted, they came about from using leftover bread or pizza dough to make small, fried stuffed pizze. They are crispy outside, fluffy inside and mezzaluna (half moon) shaped.  Panzerotti can have a simple tomato and mozzarella filling, or prosciutto, prosciutto cotto (ham), or fresh sausage cut out of its casing and fried can be added.  Other common fillings include onion, olive, capers anchovies and tomato, and spicy pork, similar to a porchetta.

Panzerotto (singular) is the diminutive form of panza, dialetto for pancia, which means belly, because the dough swells up like a bloated belly when fried in oil!

Panzerotti Recipe:

Dough:

500 g total of flour:  -250g 00 flour (1¾ cups)

                                     -250g semola rimacinata*(2 cups)

10g (2 teaspoons) instant dried yeast

250 ml warm water

Pinch of sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil, plus more to grease the bowl

125 ml (½ cup) milk

5g (1 tsp) salt

Filling:

250 g passata di pomodoro or a tin of Mutti Polpa, which may need to be strained

Mozzarella -if using fresh mozzarella, drain first to decrease moisture

Prosciutto

Oregano or basil

My favourite ingredient-un po’ di pepe-a bit of pepper!

Sunflower oil for frying

Instructions:  Disolve the yeast in 1 cup water and a pinch of sugar or honey and let sit for 10 minutes.  Add all the flour(s) to a large mixing bowl or on a spianatoia (pasta board).  Make a hole in the center and add the milk, oil and water /yeast.  Mix together with a fork, slowly incorporating more flour.  Add salt last, then knead on a lightly floured surface for 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Add more flour if it is too wet, and more milk if it is too dry.

Lightly oil the bowl and place the dough back in.  Cover with a damp tea towel/cloth so it does not dry out, and let rise 2 hours or until doubled in size.

Roll out 14-15 balls (~ 50g each) and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.  Cover with a damp tea towel/cloth and let rise for 1 hour. The panzerotti will cook more evenly if they are all about the same size.

Add oregano or basil, and pepper to the tomato passata or polpa.  I do not add salt if using an already salty filling like prosciutto. Drain mozzarella to avoid extra moisture if using fresh.

One at a time, roll a ball of dough into a thin circle.  Add ½ to 1 tablespoon tomato mixture in the center and smooth it around with a spoon.  Do NOT go too close to the edges, and add more in the bottom half of circle.  Add other ingredients to the bottom half of the circle.  Fold in half, pressing edges firmly together, then double seal by folding the edge over again and pinch with fingers to make a fancy design. You do not want the panzerotti to open during frying.  This will make a mess of the oil.  Too much filling and /or too much moisture will also cause them to open.

Keep aside a small piece of dough to test the oil to see if it is hot enough. Fry in sunflower oil in batches of 2-3 panzerotti for 2-3 minutes per side or until golden and puffy.  You can spoon a bit of oil over the top to prevent bubbles-although I like the bubbles!  Drain on paper towels so they stay crispy and do not get soggy.  Fry right away, as if they sit, the dough continues to rise, making them more likely to open.  It is best to make panzerottiwith 2 people-1 to assemble and 1 to fry.  If you do not have 4 hands, put the filled panzerotti in the fridge as you make them, until ready to fry them all.  They are best served soon after frying. Makes about 14-15 panzerotti.  I usually double this recipe and freeze them.

Raw, stuffed panzerotti can also be frozen.  Fry them still frozen, as defrosting may turn them into soup.  Place a splash screen on top of the pan in case the oil spatters!

Panzerotti can also be baked at 200°C (295°F) for 20 minutes, although technically this makes them calzone. Brush the top with egg yolk or oil before baking or they may be dry.

*Semola or semolina is the yellow durum wheat endosperm.  Semola rimacinata has been ground once more.  It gives the dough more of a bite to it.  You can just use 500 g All Purpose flour, but I find the best results using a combination of 00 and semola rimacinata.  It is also common to just use simple pizza or bread dough to make panzerotti, but those are more like stuffed pizze fritte.

**as with all recipes involving flour, it is always best to weigh with a scale rather than measure with cups.

Buon appetito!  Cristina

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Torcello

13 Monday May 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Travel, Travel tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

Daytrips from Venezia, Locanda Cipriani, Risotto di go', Torcellum, Venetian lagoon, Veneto, Venice

The first time I visited tiny Torcello was with my family in 1984. We were staying with family friends in Mestre and their daughter had just gotten married there. One look at her wedding photos and all 9 of us set off on the vaporetto to Torcello for lunch the next morning!

The Romans called it ‘Torcellum’ meaning tower to the sky. Torcello was the first of the Venetian lagoon islands to be populated in 452 after the fall of the Roman Empire, by refugees from Altino fleeing the mainland from Hun invasions.  They brought the relics of their patron saint, San Heliodorus with them. Torcello had a cathedral and Bishop before San Marco was even built.  Santa Maria Assunta built in 638 is the oldest parish in the lagoon and was the Bishop’s official seat for over 1000 years.

Pre medieval Torcello was a more powerful trade center than Venezia, having close trade ties with Constantinople and Ravenna. In the 10th century, the population was >10,000.  Hard to imagine on 441 m², but it sounds like there was more available land at that time.  Commercial activity included fishing, glass making, and export of salt, fruit, wine and even cucumbers.

As Venezia’s prosperity increased in the 15th century, silting and swamping of Torcello made navigating the ‘laguna morta’ impossible.  This led to malaria and depopulation.  It was slowly abandoned for Murano, Burano and Venezia-even the bishop was moved to Murano.  Most of the 12 churches, cloisters, a monastery and palazzi were looted over time for building materials. The full-time population of Torcello is now 11, including the parish priest.

Torcello is a lovely sanctuary from the crowds, and an opportunity to see the original Venezia.  Strada della Rosina connects the pier to the main piazza along a canal.  On the right is Ponte del Diavolo, a bridge without parapets (railings). There are several versions of a legend about the ponte, regarding a young couple in love, a witch and the devil.  You will pass all the restaurants on the way to Piazza Santa Fosca.  The Basilica Santa Fosca is an 11th century Byzantine church in the form of a Greek cross.  Byzantine architecture is one of my favourites, and this one is a gem with a gorgeous interior.  It was built to house the remains of Santa Fosca da Ravenna.  

Next door is Santa Maria Assunta which was rebuilt in 1008 and has incredible Venetian Byzantine mosaics. The 11th century Campanile is open 10-17:30 for views over Torcello, Burano, and the lagoon. Admission to the campanile is €6. The Torcello museo is in the former council chambers, admission €3.

Venetian Byzantine mosaics Santa Maria Assunta, Torcello

Aironi and fenicotteri rosa (herons and pink flamingos) can be seen in the marshes from March to September at Casa Museo Andrich-an artist home, museum, nature reserve and educational farm garden.  Admission €12.  To get there, when getting off the vaporetto, instead of going straight to Strada della Rosina, turn left. I have not been here, but it sounds nice if you have the time.

Torcello is a great place to eat!  Local specialties include risotto di gò, made with a small local fish-also called risotto alla Buranella, moeche-a soft shell crab, baccalà mantecato, and carciofi Sant’Erasmo in spring.  The first place after the pier is the informal Taverna Tipica Veneziana, a shack in a field with picnic tables serving a limited but yummy local menu.

At Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo (closed Monday), I had a simple radicchio and balsamico salad here with an amazing glass of vino bianco, Torcellum from the golden Dorona grape, which was almost extinct.  Unfortunately, the island only produces enough grapes to supply the local restaurants with wine.

Ristorante Villa ‘600 (closed Wednesday) an old 17th century farmhouse and gardens. This is where my family had seafood risotto in 1984!  I still have the receipt!

Ristorante Al Trono d’ Attila (closed Monday) I believe this is where the 1984 wedding reception was held!

The Locanda Cipriani (the same Cipriani as in Harry’s Bar) is a five room upscale resort and restaurant on Torcello since 1935.  In 1948, Ernest Hemingway wrote ‘Across the River and into the Trees’ here. Celebrities and royalty have been known to stay here. The restaurant is not as pricey as one would expect.Do not miss the last vaporetto, as there are only 2 places to stay on Torcello- Locanda Cipriani and Bed and Breakfast Ca’ Torcello!  There are also 2 places to stay on Burano and 1 on Mazzorbo-which is connected to Burano by a bridge.  On the weekends, restaurants can be open till 2300, which is after vaporetto hours. Water taxi back to Venezia is very expensive. Oh and in case you are wondering, there is no shopping on Torcello!

Torcello 1984

Torcello is 10km away from Venezia and accessible from Burano via a 10 minute vaporetto ride daily from 0800-2000.  Let me know if any of you have been to Torcello!

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10 years of Un po’ di pepe!

25 Thursday Apr 2024

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Blogging, Inspiration

≈ 27 Comments

Tags

25 Aprile, Blogging, Bloghiversary, Liberazione d'Italia, Vespa

Auguri a me! Today is bloghiversario #10 for Un po’ di pepe! 10 years ago today, I hit the big blue ‘publish’ button and started this blog.  Where did the time go?  It feels like only yesterday I had trouble coming up with a cool name that was not already taken. This has been an amazing, rewarding experience and I have ‘met’ so many virtual friends and even reconnected with old ones. In the end, that is what this is all about-connecting with people to share ideas and experiences.

To those of you who have been with Un po’ di pepe since the beginning -most of you are related to me- grazie mille for your encouragement and support! To those who discovered the blog more recently or visit occasionally, Benvenuto!  Find out more about me by reading ‘Perché questo blog?/Why write a blog?’, ‘About me/Chi sono’ and bilingual interview L’Intervista con Silvia.

What does 10 years look like? 485 subscribers, 217 posts, ~50 views/day from 99 countries, 24 recipe posts, 7 posts that come up on the first page of a google search, 5 Caravaggio posts, 2 or 3 posts that have been used by art history courses, 1 Cannolo Award, 1 interview by a fellow blogger, and 1 global pandemic.

The top 10 posts from the past 10 years are*:

#10 Torta Caprese all’Arancia (2015) a flourless chocolate cake recipe written to celebrate receiving a Cannolo Award for authentic Italian food blogging.


#9 Benvenuti ad Orsara di Puglia (2014) an introduction to my little paese.Orsara di Puglia landscape

#8 The Last Medici (2020) As an art history nerd, this was my personal thanks to Anna Maria Luisa De’ Medici (AMLDM) last of the Medici family, for leaving Firenze and the world her family’s legacy of art treasures.  If you have been to the Uffizi or Palazzo Pitti, you will know what I mean. This post comes up 4th in google search both for the topic and her name

#7 La Trinità di Massaccio (2018) When I first published this art history lesson, it did not get much love.  A few years later, I discovered that it came up as the 1st listing after Wikipedia in a Google search! This explains the steady trickle of views. I think it was also on reading lists for art history classes in the US, since a lot of views were referred from the course websites of Santa Monica College and a Pittsburgh high school! Molto cool!

My quick sketches of the vanishing point, perspective lines and triangular composition. The colour image is my entry ticket from 2004!

#6 Polignano a Mare (2016) In this post about the stunning clifftop town on the coast of Puglia, read about infraditi and my probable encounter with the mysterious ‘stair poet’.

#5 Napoli Street Art (2020) Napoli-the perfect place for self-expression since the last few thousand years. Join me on a graffiti/street art tour in the Centro Storico. This post comes up 3rd in Google search. I have enough new street art photos for a 2.0 version soon.Madonna con la Pistola Banksy Napoli street art

#4 Hairstyling in Ancient Roma (2017) This post was ignored until 2022, then in 2023 it was the most viewed!  I am not sure why? I know some views have been referred via Pinterest and it now ranks 3rd in Google search. Join me as I study ancient hairstyling practices by looking at Classical sculptures and paintings. Most of my research was done at Palazzo Massimo.  Yeah for archeology nerds!

#3 L’Arte sa Nuotare (2019) During a trip to Firenze with my nipotina Viaggio con Isabella we were on constant lookout for street art by Blub, the mysterious street artist who plunges famous works of art underwater. This post also comes up 2nd on the first page of a Google search, after the artist’s Instagram page!  More Blub love in Blub a Napoli.Putto Raffaello Firenze street art Blub

#2 Grano Arso (2015) Burnt grain, a Pugliese gastronomic tradition honouring the resilience of our contadini ancestors. There is not a lot written in English about grano arso, which explains why it is always on my most viewed list and comes up 5th on a Google search.

#1 Italiano per Ristoranti (2014) This handy Italian menu pronunciation guide is the top suggestion in google search for ‘Italian menu pronunciation’.  A link to a six page downloadable PDF is available at the end of the post. I would still like to expand and turn it into an ebook someday. If you have experience with this, any advice would be appreciated!

Bruschetta (broo.SKET.tah)

Those are the top 10 posts, now let’s take a look back at 10 of my favourite older posts that did not get the love I think they deserved:

I Trabucchi del Gargano (2014)  the fascinating fishing contraptions found along the Adriatic Coast, specifically the Northern coast of Puglia

Passata di Pomodoro (2014) Highlights of my family’s annual tomato canning day!

Le Isole Tremiti (2015) A helicopter trip to islands in the Adriatic.San Domino Isole Tremiti, Puglia

Nel blu dipinto di Azzurro (2015) The long, amazing history of blue pigment and the colour blue.

I Sassi di Matera (2015) the ancient city in Basilicata has a mystical, otherworldly feel about it and a fascinating history.

Margherita di Savoia (2016) This post is about random associations I have to Regina Margherita di Savoia.

Caffè con Caravaggio a Roma (2018) A walk through Roma visiting 3 churches where you can see 6 Caravaggio paintings for free, hanging where they have been for over 400 years, and stops for caffè along the way.

Il Sole di metà pomeriggio (2018) Sunny mid-afternoon summer photos taken in Orsara di Puglia while everyone is resting-except me.

Percorso della Memoria (2021) A tour of Orsara di Puglia with giant old black and white photos displayed in the Centro Storico.

Che cavolo!  Non rompere le scatole! (2023) I love this language post about euphemisms!  Even photos of flying genitalia did not entice readers!

Flying cazzi amulet mobile at the Napoli Airport gift shop

Did you know a few of my posts are not Italian themed?!  They include Halifax and the Titanic, 100 years of Insulin, Madame Gautreau, 2 Australia posts and 4 Covid 19 related posts.

Upcoming stuff:  In the next few months, I have ‘In Vino there are Memories’ being published in ‘A Literary Harvest:  Canadian Writing about Wine and Other Brews’ edited by Licia Canton, Giulia De Gasperi and Decio Cusmano.  Upcoming posts include Torcello, Artemisia Gentilleschi, more Caravaggio and some book reviews. The list is long!

April 25th is also La Festa della Liberazione d’Italia, the anniversary of the liberation from Fascist occupation in 1945.  Since 1946, it has been a national holiday.  Viva la libertà!

Grazie to all of you for taking the time to read, send messages and especially for giving me an excuse to share my images and research and write about things that interest me!   You know ….’Devo fare ricerca per il blog’ (I need to do research for my blog) is now my reason to do all the things I want to do! If you have any suggestions for future posts or just want to say ‘ciao’, leave me a comment.

Grazie a tutti i lettori di ‘Un po’ di pepe’ per continuare a leggere e per avermi dato una scusa per condividere le foto che ho scattato e per scrivere di cose che mi piacciono. Ormai posso usare la scusa ‘devo fare ricerca per il blog’ per tutto quello che voglio fare. Lasciatemi un messaggio se avete delle idee per un post o se semplicemente volete dire ‘ciao’.

To celebrate bloghiversario #10, I am giving away 10 signed ‘Vespa‘ hand printed cards.  Next week, I will put the names of everyone who left a comment into a hat and Mamma will draw 10 winners.  In bocca al lupo! It has been an amazing decade and I look forward to the next one!  I’ll leave you with a link to my very first post Il Gigante, about Michelangelo’s David.  Ciao, Cristina

Grazie mille to Isabella for the pink cupcakes and Mamma for the pesche made for my big compleanno in January!

*Note…Stats are really interesting, but WordPress’ method of collecting stats is odd.  The newest post counts as a ‘Home page’ view until the next one is published and I am not sure how much this changes the results.

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