Pomodoro Day!

27 Sunday Aug 2017

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian life, Mangiamo!

Tags

Italian food, Passata di pomodoro, photography, Pomodori, Pomodoro day, Pugliese Traditions, Tomato day, Tomato sauce

Today was my famiglia‘s annual pomodoro day. We turned 15 boxes of pomodori, plus more from our gardens into passata di pomodoro, or as we simply call it ‘la salsa’. The boxes were 18 kg each (40 lbs)! That is 272 kg of pomodori and we made 140 litres of passata. Siamo stanchi!

For new readers of Un po’ di pepe, or those of you who have not read my previous pomodoro related posts, here they are. Click on the appropriately coloured red links!

Passata di pomodoro

Passata di Pomodoro is a detailed description of my famiglia’s annual passata making day. There is a lot of red in photos in this post! Rosso come un pomodoro, but no one is blushing.

Il Pomodoro discusses the history of the pomodoro and how it came to Italia and eventually became edible. You read that correctly-pomodori originally tasted really gross and were used only for ornamental purposes. You’ve come a long way, pomodoro.

Does your famiglia make passata di pomodoro? I’d love to hear about it. Ciao, Cristina

Peppe Zullo~Il Cuoco-Contadino

28 Sunday May 2017

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Amici e Famiglia, Orsara di Puglia, Puglia, Vino

≈ 15 Comments

Tags

Italian food, Orsara di Puglia, Peppe Zullo, Pugliese Traditions, Southern Italy, Tuccanese, Wines of Puglia

My amico Peppe Zullo is known as ‘Il Cuoco-Contadino’. At the age of 24, Peppe left Orsara di Puglia to work in Boston and Puerto Vallarta Mexico, where he opened a restaurant. He moved back to Orsara and opened his ristorante in 1992 on his family land in the Piano Paradiso area. Piano Paradiso is an idyllic setting facing Orsara di Puglia, with spectacular views. Peppe greets visitors with the appropriate salutation ‘Benvenuti in Paradiso’.

Peppe Zullo nel vigneto. Photo Nicola Tramonte

The Piano Paradiso site also includes a reception hall, Nuova Sala Paradiso and the award winning cantina. Peppe’s wine cellar La Cantina del Paradiso, designed by Nicola Tramonte was featured in the exhibit ‘Le Cattedrali del Vino’ at the Biennale di Venezia Archittetura in 2010. It is built into the side of a hill, with a vineyard on top! As Peppe likes to say, it’s the only cantina where you have to climb up stairs! This is the best place in town on a hot day! The cantina is built to resemble a subterranean small town with narrow streets and rooms. It also features colourful, whimsical original artwork by Leon Marino, an artist from Troia.

L’angelo contadino by Leon Marino

La Cantina is full of vino! Peppe Zullo produces about 25,000 bottles per year. His 2 wines are Aliuva and Ursaria. Aliuva is 80% Tuccanese 20% Uva di Troia (Nero di Troia) and Merlot. Ursaria is 80% Tuccanese, 20% Uva di Troia and Cabernet, and is aged for 5 years in wood barrels. Peppe’s vino is served in his restaurant and event facilities and sold on site and at Peppe Zullo Point in Foggia. Read more in part 3 of my Vini di Puglia series- Il Tuccanese.

At the top of the hill, looking out over the vigna, are the Suites del Paradiso, 5 rental suites with a view of the rooftops of Orsara. Above the suites, at the top of the estate is a wheat field growing an ancient Pugliese strain called Senatore Cappelli. We call it ‘Strambell’ in Orsarese. Pale Eoliche, wind turbines belonging to Montaguto can be seen behind the field. Also on site are Peppe’s home, offices, several places for outdoor receptions or enjoying the scenery and a fenced in area with fruit trees, sheep and horses.

Peppe’s 180,000 m² azienda agricola (agricultural estate) also includes a second location acquired in 2004. Villa Jamele is a few km down the road towards Troia. The reconstructed 1700’s villa is home to an international cooking school, with rooms on the upper floor. Villa Jamele is featured in the next post.

Dalla terra alla tavola or Cibo a km 0 is the philosophy here. This translates to ‘Field to table’ or the ‘100 mile diet’. Food does not get any fresher. In addition to producing wine and olive oil, Peppe grows most of his own vegetables at Villa Jamele, including pomodori which are canned on site in August. Il Bosco dei Sapori Perduti is a biodiverse orchard which includes over 50 varieties of fruit trees and herbs. Peppe uses local, traditional products including wild greens and herbs such as boragine (borage), marasciuolo (a type of wild rucola found in Puglia), fiori di zucca, wild asparagus, Greek mint and Cacioricotta, a DOP goat cheese made only in Orsara. He makes bread and pasta with zucca and grano arso and also produces his own cheeses. One of Peppe favourite antipasti are ‘ostriche di montagne’ or ‘mountain oysters’. These are lightly battered and fried foglie di Boragine – borage leaves. My favourite antipasto is fiori di zucca al forno ripieni di caciocavallo!

Orecchiette di grano arso al sugo, Ristorante Peppe Zullo Orsara di Puglia

Peppe is an ambassador for cucina povera and the gastronomic traditions of Puglia. In the last few years, he has made frequent television appearances on RAI’s Uno Mattina and Geo & Geo. Check them ou on his Youtube channel. Appuntamento con la Daunia, a 2 day event celebrating local cuisine and products is held at Villa Jamele every year, the second week in October. I receive an invitation every year but have not been able to attend…yet.

Peppe was the chef representing Puglia for the month of May at Expo 2015 in Milano. They served a lot of orecchiette di grano arso! That same year, along with another Pugliese chef, he catered an Indian wedding for 1,000 guests in Borgo Egnazio, near Ostuni. In 2016 he catered the 80^th birthday party for Lino Banfi-who plays the adorable Nonno on RAI’s ‘Un Medico in Famiglia’.

Peppe Zullo & Lino Banfi

Ristorante Peppe Zullo is open daily for pranzo, the mid-day meal. They are not open in the evening. Afterwards, visit the cantina, vigneto or take a short passeggiata to Orsara. La Scuola di Cucina at Villa Jamele is open from September to November and February to April. Classes are 5 hours per day 6 days a week and can be organized for 8-16 participants. To make a reservation at Ristorante Peppe Zullo, book a suite, cooking class or destination wedding, call or email 39 0881 964763 info@peppezullo.it

Via Piano Paradiso, Orsara di Puglia FG www.peppezullo.it

Peppe is on Facebook, Instagram(@peppezullo), Twitter(@peppezullo2), and Youtube

Stay tuned for posts on Villa Jamele and La Cantina del Paradiso. Ciao, Cristina

Italian Street Food Cookbook

05 Saturday Nov 2016

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Amici e Famiglia, Culture, Libri, Mangiamo!

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Italian food, Italian Street Food Cookbook, Paola Bacchia

Italian Street Food: Recipes from Italy’s Bars and Hidden Laneways is finally available, and I just received my copy! Some of you may remember in February I had the pleasure of being a ‘recipe tester’ for Paola Bacchia of Italy on my Mind for this book. I tested the recipe for Fiadoni Abbruzzesi which were squisito. I have made them several times now and can’t wait to try more of the recipes.

A country’s street food is usually reflective of its ‘real’ food…what people actually eat. Paola draws on her own experiences growing up in an Italian family, and also her frequent ‘on site’ experiences travelling the back streets of Italian cities. Many of the recipes are similar to things I grew up eating too. Besides the yummy and genuine recipes, the book is visually stunning. Most of the photos were taken by Paola. The cover is not a teaser-the inside is just as beautiful. Each recipe also comes with a story about the history of the food and Paola’s personal experience with where she tasted it. I know some of you are drooling and jealous reading this, but you can order your own copy from Amazon.

Paola is Italoaustraliana, living in Melbourne and her roots are in the Veneto and Istria. She teaches cooking classes in Melbourne and is a guest instructor at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School in Sicilia. Her blog was voted best food blog twice in the ITALY magazine blog awards. Cool fact-Paola was also a contestant on Masterchef Australia! Buon Appetito, Cristina

Spaghetti all’Amatriciana

30 Tuesday Aug 2016

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Mangiamo!, Recipes, Roma

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Amatrice, Croce Rossa Italiana, Cucina Romana, Earthquake relief Central Italy, Inspiration, Italian food, Pasta all'Amatriciana, Terremoto 2016, Traditional recipes

My last post was about the terremoto in Italia and I listed ways you can help with earthquake relief. One of these ways was to order Pasta all’Amatriciana at one of the many restaurants participating to raise money for the Croce Rossa Italiana. I realized that not everyone will have a restaurant in their area participating, so I am posting a recipe, just in case anyone wants to host their own small fundraiser. August 27-28 would have been the Spaghetti all’Amatriciana festa in Amatrice.

Pasta all’Amatriciana-also known as Pasta alla Matriciana in dialetto Romano, is made with guanciale (cured pork cheek), Pecorino Romano, and pomodoro (tomato). Peperoncino is often added. Pasta all’Amatriciana originated from Pasta alla Gricia, made with guanciale and Pecorino. It is basically Pasta Carbonara with tomato instead of eggs. Shepherds near Amatrice carried the simple ingredients with them into the fields. The pomodoro had not been brought to Europe yet. In Amatrice, they started making the Pasta alla Gricia with pomodoro, once it had been introduced. When Amatriciani moved from the outlaying areas to Roma, the sauce became popular, and is now considered a staple of Cucina Romana. In Roma, Amatriciana is made with bucatini, which are spaghetti with a hole down the middle, or rigatoni, but in Amatrice, it is only made with spaghetti!

Spaghetti all’Amatriciana

100g guanciale (pancetta can be used if guanciale not available)

350g passata di pomodoro, or pelati (peeled tomatoes)-about 1 500ml canning jar

75g Pecorino Romano, freshly grated

Black pepper, freshly grated

320g spaghetti or bucatini (80g per person)

Cut guanciale into strips or cubes. In a frying pan, cook guanciale until crispy. When the white part becomes transparent, add tomatoes and pepper. While this is simmering, cook spaghetti in a large pot of salted water. Cook for 1 minute less than the time it says on the box! Drain well then add to the pan and toss in the sauce and add Pecorino. Serve with extra Pecorino Romano on top. Serves 4. Buon Appetito!

Fiadoni Abruzzesi

12 Saturday Mar 2016

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Amici e Famiglia, Mangiamo!

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Abruzzo, Fiadoni, Italian food, Italian Street Food, Italyonmymind

This weekend I had the pleasure of being a ‘recipe tester’ for Paola of Italy on my Mind for her upcoming cookbook on Italian street food and bar food. Paola is Italoaustraliana, living in Melbourne and her roots are in the Veneto and Istria. She runs cooking classes in Melbourne. In September she will be a guest instructor at the Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School in Sicilia. Paola was also a contestant on Masterchef Australia!

These cheese-filled Fiadoni were squisito and I will definitely be making them again soon. I’m not able to share the recipe here-we’ll have to wait for Paola’s book! Ciao, Cristina

Margherita di Savoia

20 Wednesday Jan 2016

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian language, Mangiamo!

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Capanna Regina Margherita, Grand Hotel Terme, Italian food, Italian history, Margherita di Savoia, Pizza Margherita, Puglia, Savoiardi

A few nights ago I was at my favourite pizzeria having a pizza Margherita. This made me think about Margherita di Savoia, and all the random connections to her name. Margherita di Savoia (Mar·gehr∙EE∙tah dee Sah∙VOH∙yah) lived from 1851-1926. She became the first Queen of Italia when her husband, Umberto I di Savoia became King. They had one son born in 1870, and he became King Vittorio Emanuele III in 1900 after the assassination of Umberto by an anarchist.

Regina Margherita was a great supporter of the arts and ‘opere di beneficenza’ – charitable works. She encouraged artists and writers and was involved with the Red Cross. During the war, she turned her house in Roma into a hospital. Margherita loved hiking and driving. The Royal garage was filled with cars named after birds. After her death, the cars were auctioned off for charity. In 1893, she climbed the peak of Monte Rosa in the Alps for the opening of Capanna Regina Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe.

Margherita was extremely popular with the public. On her visit to Napoli in 1889, she took off her gloves to eat a chicken leg with her hands, which is the origin of the saying ‘Anche la regina Margherita mangia il pollo con le dita/ Even Regina Margherita eats chicken with her fingers’. Unfortunately Margherita’s political views leaned towards fascism in her later years, but fortunately that isn’t one of my random connections!

My list of random connections to Margherita di Savoia:

1-Pizza Margherita. In 1889, in honour of the royal visit to Napoli, Raffaele Esposito of Pizzeria Brandi ‘created’ pizza Margherita topped with pomodoro, mozzarella and basilico (tomato, mozzarella and basil) to represent the colours of the Italian flag. In reality these pizza toppings were already being used in Napoli, so it was the name created by pizzaiolo Raffaele. I remember having a delicious calzone a long time ago in Montaguto called ‘Le Mutande della Regina’. It was filled with Margherita toppings, and the calzone was left a bit open on the 2 sides, with sausage meat spilling out so they looked like frilly underwear!

2-Margherita di Savoia, Puglia. In the summer, there is a direct bus from Orsara di Puglia to Margherita di Savoia, a seaside thermal spa town in the province of Barletta 2 hours away. Before 1879, it was called Saline di Barletta because of the saltworks. Salt has been collected here since the Roman times. Approaching Margherita, the salt looks like snowy mountains by the beach. The water is very salty and therapeutic, and the Grand Hotel Terme di Margherita is known for ‘fanghi’ salty mud treatments.

3-The Pantheon. Regina Margherita is buried with her husband Umberto in my favourite architectural masterpiece.

4-Tiramisù. Savoiardi are named after the Savoia family. They were the 15^th Century official court biscuit of the House of Savoia, created in honour of a visit from the King of France. Without savoiardi, there would be no tiramisu.

5-Forza Azzurri! The Italian National Team wear azzurro, the colour of the House of Savoia.

6-My address! In Orsara di Puglia, I live on Via Regina Margherita.

The last one is my favourite Margherita! The word ‘margherita’ means daisy, as in the flower. Can you think of other random Margherita connections?

*Portrait of Margherita di Savoia 1881 from Wikimedia Commons

Gnocchi di Zucca

15 Sunday Nov 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Recipes

≈ 15 Comments

Tags

Gnocchi, Gnocchi di zucca, Italian food, Pumpkin carving, Pumpkin gnocchi recipe, Traditional recipes

One of my favourite things about fall is zucca (ZOOK•kah). Zucca can mean pumpkin or squash and I love them both. Risotto di zucca, zuppa di zucca, roasted zucca…..yum! It always makes me sad to throw out my carved hallowe’en pumpkin, so this year, I used a small battery operated candle and ‘recycled’ my zucca into another one of my favourite things- gnocchi! Gnocchi (NYOK•kee) are usually made with potatoes, but they can also be made with ricotta, zucca, or a combination. I made mine with no potato- just zucca as they are lighter and have a more intense zucca flavour. A large hallowe’en zucca makes a lot of gnocchi, but you don’t have to use all of the polpa di zucca (pumpkin flesh) at once. It can keep in the fridge for 3 days until you have time to make more gnocchi. All of the measurements in this recipe are very approximate, as it depends on the water content of the zucca.

Gnocchi di Zucca

500-600 grams mashed roasted zucca (pumpkin) with excess water removed (2 cups)

1 small egg, beaten

160g 00 flour (about 1¼ cup) + extra for dusting

60g (¼cup) grated Pecorino Romano (or Parmigiano if you don’t have Pecorino)

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

Pinch of salt

Cut zucca into pieces, wrap in aluminum foil and bake at 180⁰C (350⁰F) for 50 minutes
Scoop out the flesh and mash by hand with a potato masher or a fork, or use a potato ricer. Unless you plan to make zuppa di zucca (pumpkin soup) do NOT use a food processor or immersion blender!
Remove as much water as possible, or the gnocchi will absorb too much flour and become dense and rubbery. Do this by straining the mashed zucca through a tea towel. A lot of water will come out! If this is too messy for you, return the mashed zucca to the oven, uncovered for half an hour to remove moisture. The tea towel method works better.
Stir in the egg and mix well, then salt, nutmeg and Pecorino.
Add half of the flour and mix well
Add more flour as needed-only a little at a time. Use as little flour as possible-only enough to make the dough hold together
On a floured surface, cut off sections of dough and hand roll into 1.5 cm (½ inch) ropes
Cut rope into 2-2.5 cm (1 inch) lengths and roll each gnocco with your thumb against the the back tines of a forchetta (fork) or over a rigagnocchi. Rigagnocchi literally means ‘gnocchi line-maker’. It is a small wooden paddle with lines carved into it, as seen in the photos. I used a forchetta to roll my gnocco over the rigagnocchi.
Place finished gnocchi on a floured tray or surface and sprinkle with more flour to prevent sticking. To freeze the gnocchi, place on a floured tea towel on a tray or baking sheet and freeze for half an hour, then put the frozen gnocchi into zip-loc® bags or containers and refreeze.
To cook gnocchi, drop them into a large pot of boiling, salted water. They only need about 3 minutes to cook, then lift them out with a slotted spoon. If cooking frozen gnocchi, do not thaw them. Take them directly from the freezer into the boiling water. Frozen gnocchi hold their shape well, but not if they have been defrosted. They will take about 4 minutes to cook.
Gnocchi di zucca should be served with a simple sauce, so as not to overpower the delicate taste. I like to heat some extra virgin olive oil and add finely chopped garlic and whole sage leaves, then toss this over my gnocchi. I sprinkled on freshly grated cacioricotta from Orsara di Puglia. If you aren’t lucky enough to have cacioricotta, use freshly grated Pecorino or Parmigiano.Buon Appetito!

Pesto Genovese

18 Friday Sep 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Recipes

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Basilico, Italian food, Moretum, Mortar and pestle, Pesto, Pesto Genovese, Pesto recipe, Traditional recipes

This year, I grew basilico (basil) from seed again. Thanks to the unusually warm summer, my plants were happy and grew nicely. I love to shake the basilico plant a bit, stick my face in it and inhale the incredible aroma. Some of my basilico was already used to make passata di pomodoro. The rest will be used to make Pesto, before it starts to rain and the leaves turn brown.

Pesto Genovese, usually just called Pesto, originated in Genoa, Liguria. It is made with fresh basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil, Pecorino Sardo or Pecorino Romano, and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Before the age of food-processors, Pesto was made by grinding the ingredients in a marble or stone mortar with a wooden pestle. The words ‘pesto’ and ‘pestle’ come from ‘pestare‘ which means to pound or crush. The most flavourful pesto is actually made by hand with a mortar and pestle, but it is hard work! Ligurian basilico has very small leaves and is easier to grind. My basilico tends to have very large leaves and is difficult to crush. The biggest problem with the food processor is that it gets very hot. I recommend putting the blades in the freezer for an hour before making pesto. This prevents the food processor from overheating and the pesto is also less likely to turn brown.

The ancient Romans made something similar called Moretum. They named it after the mortar instead of the pestle! Moretum was a spread made with fresh sheep milk cheese, herbs, salt, pine nuts and olive oil.

Basilico was likely brought to Italia from India, and the climate of Liguria was perfect for it. The Genovese adapted the Romans’ recipe to include basilico, and Pesto Genovese was born! In Liguria, Pesto is usually served with trofie or linguine. It is also used on pasta, potatoes and green beans, all cooked in the same pot of water. Yum!

When I make Pesto, I do not measure the ingredients, but I estimated them here for you. Good quality ingredients are necessary to make delicious Pesto. No skimping!

Pesto Genovese

2 firmly packed cups (500 ml) large basil leaves

3 cloves of garlic

¼ cup (50 grams) European pine nuts

salt and pepper

½ cup (125 ml) good quality extra virgin olive oil

½ cup (45 grams) grated Pecorino Sardo or Pecorino Romano

½ cup (45 grams) grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Put the blades of the food processor in the freezer for an hour
Wash the basil and dry well. Water on the leaves will turn them brown and the Pesto will go bad. Yuck!
I like to toast the pine nuts as it brings out the flavour, but this is optional
Blend garlic and pine nuts in a food processor until fine
Add basil, pulsing a handful at a time until blended
Add salt and pepper. Not too much salt, as the cheese is salty too
Pour in olive oil slowly while food processor is running
Pour it all into a bowl and add the Pecorino and Parmigiano
Spoon the Pesto into small jars with tight fitting lids
Seal the jar with a thin film of olive oil
Pesto keeps well in the fridge for 6-8 months. If you use part of a jar, add another thin film of olive oil before putting it back in the fridge
To freeze the Pesto, leave out the 2 cheeses and add them when you are going to use it

Buon Appetito!

Il Pomodoro

07 Monday Sep 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian life, Mangiamo!

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Acqua sale, Antonio Latini, Conserva di pomodoro, Francesco Leonardi, History of the tomato, Italian food, Mediterranean diet, Passata di pomodoro, Pomodori, Tomato sauce, Traditional recipes

Late August/early September is pomodoro season. Last weekend my family made passata di pomodoro and pomodori pelati in the garage. If you haven’t read last year’s post, check ‘Passata di Pomodoro’ out for a step by step commentary! Passata di pomodoro, or simply ‘salsa’ as we usually call it, is very versatile. It is used to make sugo (tomato sauce) or ragù (meat sauce) and pizza, or added to fagioli (beans) and lenticchie (lentils), minestrone and other zuppe (soups).

To make pomodori pelati, pomodori are cut into quarters, the seeds removed, and then tightly packed into vasetti (jars) with basilico and a spoonful of salt. The vasetti are sealed and cooked, then turned upside down to cool. Pelati are used for pizza al pomodoro and zuppe. They can also be used for making sauces, although I am not a fan of skins and seeds in my sugo!

Canning or bottling pomodori is a yearly domestic ritual for many Italian and Italocanadese families. It’s a lot of work, but totally worth it. All year round you have the taste of summer in a jar!

The pomodoro was not always such a staple in the Italian cucina. First grown by the Aztecs in Mexico, then also in the South American Andes, the pomodoro was brought to Europe by the Spanish in the 16^th Century. The first documentation of pomodori in Italia is a 1548 note from Cosimo de’ Medici’s household to his secretary. The note states that ‘un cestino di pomodori’ (a basket of tomatoes) from one of the Medici estates had been received. At this time, pomodori were not eaten or used in cooking. They were exotic but their taste was considered really gross, so they were mostly ornamental and sometimes used in potions as an aphrodisiac. Hmmmm.

Early pomodori did not taste anything like they do today, and some varieties were even toxic. Fortunately, the Mediterranean climate was ideal for growing the pomodoro. It was able to mutate and create better tasting, sweeter versions of itself. It did take awhile for anyone to figure out what to do with the pomodoro. I’m really glad someone thought of adding olive oil, basilico, salt and of course, un po’ di pepe!

The earliest recorded recipe using pomodori was in Napoli, in Antonio Latini’s book ‘Il Scalco alla Moderna’. This translates to something like ‘The Modern Butler’. The recipe was for ‘Salsa alla Spagnuola’, a Spanish condiment made with pomodoro, melanzane (eggplant) and cipolla (onion). Sounds a bit like ratatouille. The first recipe using pomodori on pasta was in Roman chef Francesco Leonardi’s 1790 cookbook ‘L’Apicio Moderno’. By the mid 1800’s the pomodoro was a staple food of Italian contadini. The ‘Contadino diet’ was mostly raw or cooked pomodori and other vegetables, legumes, bread or pasta, salt and olive oil. Today they call this the ‘Mediterranean diet’.

‘Acqua Sale’ is a classic Orsarese comfort food. Older bread slices are soaked in water and then pomodori are squished over it. A drizzle of olive oil, salt, and basilico or oregano and it’s an instant delicious meal, similar to Panzanella Toscana. This tastes even better on freshly baked bread-minus the soaking in water! We always ate ‘pan’ e pomodoro’ when the bread came out of the oven. Yum. So simple yet so delicious.

I asked Mamma what they did before glass vasetti and other modern canning conveniences were available. She said they made ‘la conserva’ which was like a tomato paste that could be stored. It was used in winter to make sugo for pasta or to add flavor to other foods. In August, pomodori were cooked with skins and seeds removed, similar to passata. This salsa was salted, placed in large earthenware dishes and left out in the sun for several days. Once it was dark and thick, la conserva was transferred to terracotta or glass containers and covered with a film of olive oil and fig leaves or basilico to seal it. The container was then covered and tied with un straccio (a dishrag). Quartered pomodori were also sundried to use in winter.

My recreation of ‘la conserva’. The passata was dried in the sun, then the thickened stuff was placed in an earthenware bowl, covered with a film of olive oil and fig leaves, then covered with a dishrag

Talking about pomodori is making me hungry! I’ll go pick some in the garden and make some pan’ e pomodoro!

Torta Caprese all’ Arancia

25 Saturday Jul 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Recipes

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Cannolo Award, Capri, Dolci, Gluten-free chocolate cake, Italian food, Southern Italy, Torta Caprese, Traditional recipes

In honour of my recent Cannolo Award, I thought this post should be food related. What is a Cannolo Award? Read about it here. Although I love them, I will not be writing about cannoli, but rather about Torta Caprese.

The super cute-issimo cannolo logo

Caprese (cah•PREH•seh) means ‘from Capri’ (CAP•ree) the beautiful island off the coast of Napoli. I suppose caprese could also mean ‘goatlike’ since capra is goat? We’ll stick with ‘from Capri’.

There are a few different stories about how Torta Caprese came to be. The most likely is that it was invented by mistake in the 1920’s or 30’s by a kitchen worker who added ground almonds (mandorle tritate) instead of flour while trying to make something similar to an Austrian Sachertorte for visitors at an Austrian owned pensione on Capri. It was a big hit, and went on to be served at all of the hotels and tea rooms on the island.

The basic recipe involves mixing melted butter and chocolate in a ‘bagno-maria’ with sugar and egg yolks, then adding whipped egg whites and ground almonds. Liqueur, usually Strega, is added. The cake has a hard thin shell and moist interior and the center tends to sink in a bit from the sides.

I recently tasted a yummy orange Torta Caprese, so I decided to try my own version. After a bit of experimentation, and substituting Gran Marnier for Strega, I ended up with a very nice Torta Caprese all’ Arancia. It is a 3 bowl recipe, so be prepared to wash lots of dishes!

Torta Caprese all’ Arancia

Ingredients:

250g dark chocolate 70%
175g (¾ cup) butter at room temperature
110g (½ cup) sugar
110g (½ cup) brown or golden sugar
grated peel of a large orange
3 tablespoons Gran Marnier, Mandarino, or other orange liqueur
6 eggs, separated
150g (1½ cups) ground blanched almonds (also called almond flour or almond meal)
½ a bustina (packet) Lievito Bertolini or Pane degli Angeli (substitute 2½ teaspoons baking powder if you can’t find these)
pinch of salt
Icing sugar for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F).

2. Butter the sides of a round springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.

3. Melt butter and chocolate in a double boiler or ‘bagno-maria’ (a stainless steel bowl in a pan of hot water) and let cool. This can also be done with a glass bowl in the microwave but be careful-only heat in 30 second intervals and stir well.

4. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks and brown sugar, then add to the chocolate. Stir in alcohol and grated orange peel.

5. Whip egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Add the white sugar.

6. In another bowl, mix almond flour, lievito or baking powder and salt together with a fork. Fold the chocolate mixture in with a rubber spatula, then fold in egg whites.

7. Pour batter into pan and bake for 55 minutes to 1 hour, until center is firm. The center sink in a bit. Remove the sides of the pan and slide the cake onto a platter.

8. Dust with icing sugar and serve with orange slices and whipped cream or gelato. Store at room temperature for up to 3 days…if it lasts that long!

Buon Appetito! Mille grazie to my amiche Anna and Shannon who were very motivated to help me photograph the finished cake. I wouldn’t let them cut it and have a piece until the photos were done!