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~ …… (oon∙poh∙dee∙PEH∙peh) Cristina writes about interesting stuff /Cristina scrive di cose interessanti

Un po' di pepe

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‘Ratto delle Sabine’

13 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Art history, Culture, Firenze, Italia

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Art, Art history, Giambologna, Loggia dei Lanzi, Piazza della Signoria, Ratto delle Sabine, Renaissance art, Sculpture

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne of my favourite works of art is moving!  After 432 years in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria Firenze, Giambologna’s ‘Ratto delle Sabine’  (Abduction of the Sabine Women) is being moved to the Galleria degli Uffizi.  In November 2014 the Ministero dei beni e delle attività culturali e turismo (Ministry of cultural works and tourism) announced that the sculpture would be moving once a reproduction is made for the Loggia and funds are secured for the move.  If needs to be moved indoors to protect it from damage caused by pollution, rain, wind and even snow.

The sculpture was carved from a single block of flawed marble.  Does that sound familiar?  Remember the ‘Il Gigante-Michelangelo’s David’ post?.  It features 3 figures intertwined in a ‘figura serpentina’- a serpentine composition.  A man is lifting a woman into the air while another man crouches, and what they are doing is not really clear.  There is no dominant viewpoint or ‘good side’ to this sculpture. It has multiple viewpoints and makes the viewer want to move around and observe it from every angle.  This was probably the first work of art with more than one point of view.

There are 2 interesting things to note about the sculpture’s misleading title.  First of all, it is usually incorrectly translated into English as ‘Rape of the Sabine Women’.  ‘Ratto’ comes from the latin ‘raptio’ meaning abduction.  The second thing is that the subject matter was entirely made up-it was not the artist who gave this work its title!  Giambologna had no subject in mind when he sculpted this piece.  This was very unusual, but he was trying to demonstrate his ability to create a perfect upward spiralling vortex.  He was the official sculptor of the Medici family and you could say he was showing off.  When the work was completed in 1583, Francesco I de’Medici decided to put it on public display at the Loggia dei Lanzi.  The Loggia is like a large covered porch in the Piazza della Signoria, with 2 walls and 2 open sides.  Some guy named Vincenzo Borghini suggested the title and apparently no one could come up with a better one.  Am I the only one who finds this annoying?

I’ve had the opportunity to view this masterpiece many times and have even sketched it from different viewpoints.  I’m sure a lot of people don’t realize this is still the original sculpture and not a copy! I can totally understand that it needs to be protected from the elements, but once it is moved, you will have to book tickets online, wait in lineups……and you won’t be able to admire it for free on a midnight walk in the Piazza. If you have not seen ‘Ratto delle Sabine’ in the Loggia dei Lanzi yet, there is still time to get to Firenze before ‘il trasloco’-moving day!

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La Befana

06 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Bilingual posts, Feste, Italian Folklore

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Befana, Buona Strega, Italian Christmas, Italian Folklore, L'Epifania, La Befana, Natale

La Befana di Anna La Befana di Anna

Today is la Festa dell’Epifania in Italia, celebrating the arrival of i Re Magi (the 3 Wise Men) Gasparre, Melchiorre & Baldassarre with their gifts of oro, incenso e mirra (gold, frankincense and myrrh) for newborn Bambino Gesù (baby Jesus).

The night between January 5th and 6th is also the 12th night between Christmas and the Epiphany, and marks the end of the Christmas holiday season.  As the proverb says, ‘L’Epifania tutte le feste porta via’.  What does this have to do with La Befana, the ‘Buona Strega’?

La Befana is the traditional ‘gift-bringer’ in Italian folklore. According to legend, which varies from region to region, she is an old woman who prides herself on being a good housekeeper. While she was sweeping, the 3 Wise Men stopped at her house to ask for directions to Bethlehem. She didn’t know the way but they invited her to join them to greet the newborn king and bring him gifts. She was quite abrupt and told them she had housecleaning to do and could not possibly join them.

Once they had left, she realized she had made a very big mistake not going with them.  Befana quickly gathered food and gifts for the newborn King into a sack and uno scialle (a shawl) in case she was cold and set off to join the Wise Men. She even brought her scopa (broom) so she could sweep the floor for Bambino Gesù. Befana searched and searched but could not catch up to the 3 kings. She did not know they had taken a different route home.

To make up for the opportunity she missed, every year on the eve of l’Epifania, Befana flies on her broom delivering small gifts to children, in the hope that one of them is Bambino Gesù. Traditionally she fills calze (socks) with ‘caramelle o carbone’ (candies or coal).  She leaves dolcetti (sweets), fichi secchi, noci, mandarini, cioccolatine (dried figs, nuts, mandarine oranges, little chocolates) and torrone for children who have been nice and leaves carbone (coal), cenere (ashes), cipolle e aglio (onions and garlic) for cattivoni (naughty children). Christmas markets in Italia sell black candy that looks like lumps of coal! A glass of vino and mandarini or biscotti are left on the kitchen table for La Befana and she sweeps the floor before she leaves.  La Befana and her broom also symbolize the old year that is ‘swept away’ after the Christmas festivities.

Her name comes from Epifania which turned into Befania in dialetto and eventually Befana.  ‘Una Befana’ can also mean an ugly old hag. If someone calls you a Befana it is not a compliment-unless they are referring to your gift-giving generosity!

LaBefana

‘La Befana vien di notte

Con le scarpe tutte rotte

S’è scucito la sottana

Viva viva la Befana!

Porta cenere e carboni

Ai bambini cattivoni

Ai bambini belli e buoni

Porta chichi e tanti doni!’

 In Italiano

Oggi è la festa dell’Epifania in Italia. Si ricorda la visita dei tre Re Magi a Betlemme con regali di oro, incenso e mirra per il neonato Bambino Gesù. La notte tra il 5 e il 6 gennaio è anche la dodicesima notte dopo il Natale e la fine delle feste Natalizie. Il proverbio dice ‘L’Epifania tutte le feste porta via’. Ma questo che c’entra con La Befana, la buona strega?

Si dice che La Befana era una vecchietta molto preoccupata con il lavoro di casa. Mentre scopava fuori, i Re Magi hanno chiesto se lei conosceva la strada per andare a Betlemme perchè là era nato il nuovo Re.  La Befana non conosceva la strada.  I Re Magi l’hanno invitata ad andare con loro a portare dei regali al Bambino, ma lei ha detto che aveva troppo lavoro da fare e non era possibile. Dopo che  se n’erano andati, La Befana ha capito che aveva sbagliato e ha deciso di raggiungere i 3 Re per andare a trovare il Bambino Gesù.  Con uno scialle e un sacco con dolcetti e regali sulle spalle se n’è andata.  Ha portata anche la scopa, per pulire il pavimento per il Bambino Gesù.  La Befana ha cercato dappertutto ma i Re Magi erano già troppo lontani.  Allora, ogni anno, nella notte tra il 5 e 6 di gennaio, volando cavalcando la scopa, La Befana porta regali ai bambini nella speranza che uno di loro sia il Bambino Gesù.  Lei reimpie le calze dei bambini con ‘caramelle o carbone’.  Dolcetti per i bambini bravi e cenere e carbone per i cattivoni.  Si lascia un bicchiere di vino e un mandarino o biscotti sul tavolo per La Befana e lei scopa il pavimento prima di andare via.

Buona Befana a tutti! Cristina

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Buon Natale

25 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Feste

≈ 8 Comments

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Natale

Gloria

Cari amici di ‘un po’ di pepe’,

Auguro un Buon Natale a voi e alle vostre famiglie! Baci, Cristina

Dear friends of ‘un po’ di pepe’,

I wish you and your families a very Merry Christmas! Baci, Cristina

presepio2014

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Cauzuncill’

19 Friday Dec 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italian life, Mangiamo!, Orsara di Puglia

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Calzoncini di ceci, Dolci di Natale, Italian food, Natale, Orsara di Puglia, Pugliese Traditions, vino cotto

cauzuncillI know Natale (Christmas) is around the corner when we make cauzuncill’  (cow•zoon•cheel).  Cauzuncill’ is Orsarese for calzoncini, which means piccoli calzoni or ‘little pants’.

Cauzuncill’ are ‘a forma di mezzaluna’ (half moon shaped) turnovers traditionally filled with mashed ceci (chick peas), vino cotto, mandarin orange and lemon zest, grated chocolate, sugar and of course alcohol. We also made some with ground almonds instead of ceci.  Castagne (chestnuts) are sometimes mixed in with the ceci filling.

Cauzuncill'collage copy

Cauzuncill' Collage3 copyCauzuncill’ are fried and then served drizzled with vino cotto.  Don’t know what vino cotto is?  When making wine, some of the freshly pressed grape juice (mosto) is slowly cooked all day until it is reduced and caramelized.  It’s like a thick wine syrup that is used for desserts, muscitaglia on November 1st, and even drizzled on snow!

Cauzuncill' (cow-zoon-cheel) with almond and vino cotto filling, drizzled with vino cotto

Cauzuncill’ (cow-zoon-cheel) with almond and vino cotto filling, drizzled with vino cotto

Dolci di Natale similar to cauzuncill’ are made in Basilicata and Molise, but the name, fillings and even the pastry change depending on the region.  What kind of dolci di Natale does your family make?

 

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Cachi

29 Saturday Nov 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Mangiamo!

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Cachi, Food, Painting, Persimmons

CachiCollageOne of the few good things about November are cachi (kah•kee) or persimmons.  Papà picked them all a few weeks ago, before it got too cold and they fell off the tree.  The cachi have been ripening in the garage.  I took home a plateful and today they looked irresistably juicy and sketchable.  Yes…. a few of my models didn’t make the photo shoot-I couldn’t resist!

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Nel Blu Dipinto di Azzurro-A History of the Colour Blue

23 Sunday Nov 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Art history

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Art history, Art materials, Azurite, Botticelli, Cennini, Giotto, Lapis lazuli, Marco Polo, Painting, Ultramarine blue, Vermeer

PoggipoggiazzurroThis post is not about Domenico Modugno’s 1958 hit song or the Azzurri, the Italian national team.  It is about the long and fascinating history of blue pigment.  Although the colour blue is all around us-in the sky, the sea and the mountains, blue pigment is rare in nature.  Unlike earth colours, which could be made by going outside and mixing dirt with oil or sap, blue pigment was made with ground minerals which were not easily obtained. This made blue a rare and valuable colour.

The Ancient Egyptians made a pigment called blue frit from blue glass ground into powder, but the complicated process of how to make it was lost. Historically, the most prized blue was ultramarine, a warm blue with a brilliant tone, leaning towards violet on the colour wheel.  Genuine ultramarine blue was made from ground lapis lazuli stone which has tiny specs of iron pyrite in it that make it glitter like gold.  Lapis lazuli comes mainly from one set of mines in the remote Badakhshan area of Northern Afghanistan (formerly Persia).  The Sar-i-Sang (Place of the Stones) mines have been in operation continuously for over 6,000 years!  Marco Polo explored the area in the 13th Century and wrote ‘there is a mountain in that region where the finest azure (lapis lazuli) in the world is found.  It appears in veins like silver streaks’.  The name ultramarine does not refer to the colour of the sea. ‘Azzurro oltre mare’ or ‘azzurro oltremarino’ means ‘blue from across the seas’.  No one knew exactly where it came from or how it was made, giving it an exotic and mysterious aura.

Lapis lazuli from the Sar-i-Sang mines in Afghanistan, courtesy of Mountain Gems, Burnaby BC.

Lapis lazuli from the Sar-i-Sang mines in Afghanistan, courtesy of Mountain Gems, Burnaby BC.

Lapis lazuli was exported to all parts of the ancient world and used for jewellery and adornment.  It is mentioned in one of the oldest known works of literature, the Mesopotamian poem ‘The Epic of Gilgamesh’ (17-18 C BC).  The irises on the Louvre’s 2400 BC alabaster statue of Ebih-II from ancient Mari (modern Syria) are made of lapis lazuli as are the eyebrows of the funeral mask of King Tutankhamun (1341-1323 BC).  Cleopatra may have even used very finely powdered lapis lazuli for eyeshadow.  Try finding that at Sephora!

The process for making a permanent, non-toxic pigment by extracting colour from the lapis lazuli stone was developed in 12th century Persia.  Trade of ultramarine to Europe via Venezia started soon after Marco Polo’s time.  It was used for manuscript illuminations and painting.  In his early 15th century bestseller, ‘Il Libro dell’Arte’ Cennino Cennini writes about how to make the pigment.  Powdered lapis lazuli stone was sifted and mixed with pine resin, gum mastic and wax or linseed oil.  It was wrapped in cloth, soaked and kneaded with a dilute lye solution until the blue colour was extracted.  Cennini wrote ‘ultramarine blue is a color illustrious, beautiful, the most perfect, beyond all other colours; one could not say anything about it, or do anything with it, that its quality would not still surpass’.

Extracting colour from lapis lazuli with lye can be compared to pressing olive oil. The process is done 3 times.  The first ‘press’, like extra virgin olive oil produces the highest quality colour.  The second press, although still good, is a lower quality colour, and the final press would be the equivalent of pomace olive oil.  In the 2009 Australian/French documentary ‘Cracking the Colour Code’ Massimo Zecchi can be seen preparing genuine ultramarine pigment for the restoration of a Renaissance altarpiece.

During the Renaissance, ultramarine became associated with the divine and heavenly, giving works of art both a sense of spirituality and luxury.  Since it was worth more than the same weight in gold, it was used sparingly by Renaissance painters.  It was reserved for the most important parts of the painting-usually the robes of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus.  Artists would sign contracts with their patrons stating the quality and price to be paid for the pigment.  Zecchi Colori e Belle Arti in Firenze has been making artist pigments for over 300 years. On their website 100g of ‘Azzurro oltremarino di lapis lazuli Afgano’ sells for 510 Euro, 10g is €58  2nd quality is €290 for 100g or €38 for 10g.

Artists often economized for the underpainting by using blue made with azurite, a mineral mined in France.  Then they would add thin layers of ultramarine over top.  Azurite makes a paler, greenish blue.  It was used for painting skies but would turn dark over time.  In one of my favourite paintings, Sandro Botticelli’s 1470  ‘La Madonna dell’ Eucaristia’ (the Madonna of the Eucharist), the difference between the grayed greenish blue of the sky and the brilliant ultramarine of the Madonna’s robe is clearly visible. If you are in Boston, be sure to visit this masterpiece at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum because photographs do not do it justice.

La Madonna dell' Eucaristia (1470) by Sandro Botticelli

La Madonna dell’ Eucaristia (1470) by Sandro Botticelli

Ultramarine was not used in fresco painting, as the colour bleaches out in reaction to the acidic wet lime plaster.  This meant an enormous amount of the expensive pigment would be needed.  Azurite was used for fresco painting.  It had a course texture, making it hard to stick to the plaster.  Several layers of azurite were needed, giving the fresco a crusty or chalky look. Ultramarine pigment was mixed with a binder-usually egg yolk, and applied to the fresco ‘secco’, after the plaster had dried. This is how Giotto painted the magnificent Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padova in 1305.

A small section of Giotto's Cappella degli Scrovegni

A small section of Giotto’s Cappella degli Scrovegni

The turban of Johannes Vermeer’s mesmerizing 1665 ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’ is painted with a mixture of ultramarine and lead white, with many thin glazes of pure ultramarine painstakingly painted over it. Vermeer went into debt buying the pigment!

Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) by Johannes Vermeer

Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) by Johannes Vermeer

In the 18th Century, oxides from cobalt were used to make a blue similar to the Ancient Egyptian blue frit. Several other blue pigments were also developed, but none could compare to ultramarine.  In 1826, the French government offered a prize to produce a synthetic version of ultramarine. Many attempts failed. The final product was named ‘french ultramarine’.  Large quantities could be produced at a much lower price. This is the ultramarine blue pigment we use today.  It is one of the most important colour discoveries in the history of artist pigments.   The next time you crack open a tube of ultramarine blue, squeeze it onto your palette and load it on your brush….you can recall the long and fascinating history that led to the manufacture of your paint!

The Italian word for blue is azzurro (ahz·ZOOR·roh), from the Persian word lazhward which morphed into lazulo then became azzurro.  The same word is the root of English azure, French azur, Polish lazur, Romanian azuriu, Spanish and Portuguese azul, and Hungarian azúr.  Lapis is Latin for stone, thus lapis lazuli means blue stone.

Forza Azzurri!

Forza Azzurri!

©2014 http://www.unpodipepe.ca

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Fucacoste e Cocce Priatorje

01 Saturday Nov 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Culture, Feste, Italian Folklore, Orsara di Puglia, Puglia

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Falò e Teste del Purgatorio, Italian history, Muscitaglia, November 1st, Orsara di Puglia, Puglia, Pugliese Traditions, Pumpkin carving, Southern Italy, Traditional Festivals in Puglia, Tutti i Santi Festa

Piazza San Pietro. Photo courtesy of International Photo Correspondent Donato Narducci Piazza San Pietro. Photo courtesy of International Photo Correspondent Donato Narducci

Fucacoste e cocce priatorje is dialetto Orsarese for ‘Falò e teste del Purgatorio’.  This translates to ‘Bonfires and heads from purgatory’. It is an ancient festival unique to Orsara di Puglia celebrated on November 1st, the night of ‘Tutti i Santi’ (All Saints Day).  All Saints Day was created in the 9th century when the Pope superimposed a Christian feast day onto existing rituals, so this festa has been around for a very long time.  It is a night where people have the opportunity to honour, reconnect and pay respect to the spirits of their loved ones.  Carabinieri estimate that Orsara (pop 3,000) had 40,000 visitors attend the festa tonight, with 9,000 cars parked up to 3 km away!

2014 poster for Fucacoste e cocce priatorje 2014 poster for Fucacoste e cocce priatorje

It is believed that the souls of the dead return among the living to visit their relatives and their former homes before moving on to Paradiso.  The bonfires are lit with wood and branches of ginestra (broom). The light of the fires and the crackling and sparks of the ginestra attract the spirits to reunite the living with those who continue to live only in their memories.  The souls of the dead loved ones collect ashes from the fires. The gleam of light inside ‘cocce priatorje’, pumpkins carved to look like heads-light their way to find their former home.

Preparation for the  festa involves gathering firewood and ginestra, preparing food and carving zucche (pumpkins).  There is even a BYOZ (bring your own zucca) pumpkin carving workshop.  Later in the evening zucche are exhibited and there is a contest for ‘la zucca più bella’-the best zucca.

In honour of the dead, simple but symbolic foods are prepared.  These include potatoes, onions, salsicce (sausages) and castagne (chestnuts) cooked in open fire. Muscitaglia is a traditional dish served on November 1st which probably dates back from the ancient Greeks and Byzantines. Muscitaglia (moo•shee•tah•lyah) in both Greek and Latin is made up of the words mosto (wine must) and talia (grain). The ingredients include boiled grain and vino cotto (literally cooked wine-also called mosto cotto). Pomegranate seeds and walnut pieces are sometimes added. These ingredients are symbols of fertility and abundance, but also of honour and respect for the dead.

Muscitaglia Muscitaglia

When the campanile (church tower bell) strikes 1900 hours (7 pm), Orsara di Puglia ‘catches fire’. Over 100 bonfires are simultaneously lit in every street and piazza and remain lit through the night.  The fires, pumpkin lanterns, music and people in the streets create a magical, enchanted atmosphere. In 2017 I attended the festa and took photos.  They are in the post Tutti i Santi.

Fucacoste e Cocce Priatorje has often been confused with Hallowe’en, but it is a very different event.  Besides the fact that the date is different, dressing up in costume is not part of the custom, there is nothing scary about it and there are no evil spirits to chase away. It has more similarities with the Mexican Dia de los Muertos/Day of the Dead.  This is an event about being together in community to celebrate the bond between the living and those who we remember in our hearts, and to remind us that our time on earth is precious.

Watch the video ‘#quinonèhalloween’ featuring 94 year old Z’Gaetan talking about the festa and its significance  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W5RD0-9H-A

Read about tonight’s festa (in Italiano) on the Comune di Orsara di Puglia website.  For more about Orsara di Puglia read the post ‘Benvenuti ad Orsara di Puglia’.  Ci vediamo alla festa!

Fucacoste e Cocce Priatorje, Fontana Sant'Angelo, Orsara di Puglia 2014. Photo courtesy of Donato Narducci Fucacoste e Cocce Priatorje, Fontana Sant’Angelo, Orsara di Puglia 2014. Photo courtesy of Donato Narducci

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Il Torchio

25 Saturday Oct 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Art, Inspiration

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Art materials, Etching press, Inspiration, Printmaking, Torchio per incisione

My new torchio!

My new torchio!

Finalmente!  I finally have my etching press (torchio per incisione)!  It’s a Richeson 11 inch ‘Baby press’.  I’ve been waiting to buy this bambino for a long time.  During the 2010 Winter Olympics, I ‘accidentally’ rented out my guest room to a very nice couple of lawyers from Michigan.  I decided I would use the money to buy myself the Baby press from Daniel Smith in Seattle.  I knew 3 printmakers who had one so I knew that it was small but sturdy and very well-built. I made several attempts to get one in Seattle, but something always went wrong.  One time I called ahead to make sure they had one in the store, but by the time I arrived it had been sold, another time the only one available had a dent in the press bed, another time I got stuck in traffic and didn’t make it there before closing time, and when I went to see U2 in Seattle, I was with too many other people and it was out of our way.  Uffa! I thought I would never have my little torchio and be doomed to printing with a pasta machine!

I recently found out that a printmaker I know bought a bigger press, so I asked her if she wanted to sell her bambino.  She was apprehensive at first, but I assured her he would get a good home and lots of love.  She finally agreed to the adoption and yesterday I picked him up from her studio.  It only took me 4½ years to get my torchio!  I can’t wait to use it for monotipi, punta secca and xilografia (monotypes, dry point etching and wood cut).  Grazie Mitch, Ellen and Kari!

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Fiori di Zucca

12 Sunday Oct 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Mangiamo!, Recipes

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

Fiori di zucca, Fritelle di zucca, Italian cooking, Pastella, Peppe Zullo, Traditional recipes

Fioridizucca

È davvero finita l’estate! Summer is really over.  I just picked the last fiori di zucca in my garden and I’ll have to wait a long time to taste them again.  Fiori di zucca are a real delicacy and one of my favourite foods.  They are ‘i fiori maschili della zucchina’ the male flowers of the zucchina plant.  The flowers growing off of long, thin stems are male.  The ones growing off the end of a future zucchina are female (femminile).  The female flowers are edible too, but if you pick them there will be no crop of zucchine!  If you pick too many of the male flowers, you will also have no zucchine!

Fiori di zucca maschile e femminile-male flowers grow off of long thin stems and female flowers grow off the end of future zucchine.

Fiori di zucca maschile e femminile-male flowers grow off of long thin stems and female flowers grow off the end of future zucchine.

To clarify, zucca is Italiano for squash or pumpkin. ‘Zucchina’ (given a sex change and called zucchini in North America) means little squash.  The flowers of all 3 can be called fiori di zucca, but it is usually the flowers of zucchine (zucchina is singular and zucchine is plural) that are used in cooking.  Squash and pumpkin flowers can also be used, but they can have a bittery taste.

Fiori di zucca are extremely delicate and will only last a few days after picking. They are even too delicate to freeze.  In Italia it isn’t hard to find fiori di zucca in season.  I recently bought a ‘bouquet’ of them at a market in Foggia for 1 Euro.  Sometimes you can even buy small zucchine with the flowers still attached. I’ve only seen fiori di zucca for sale once in North America, several years ago at a farmer’s market in Seattle.  I won’t even mention how much they cost!  So, if you want to eat fiori di zucca you really need to grow your own-or find a friend who grows them and doesn’t know how good they taste!

Fiori di zucca have a beautiful, delicate taste. I like to cook them a few different ways, but my favourite is in a simple ‘pastella’.  I whisk cold fizzy mineral water (acqua frizzante) with flour or semolino (durum wheat semolina) a drop of olive oil and pepper until it is not too thick or thin-like the consistency of pancake batter.  If it is too thin, it won’t stick, but if it’s too thick, the fiori can be damaged.  Gently clean fiori and remove the sepals-those green leaves at the base near the stem.  Some people remove the stamens inside, but I usually leave them. Dip them in pastella (batter) and fry in hot oil. I usually use grapeseed oil. When they are done, place on a plate with‘carta assorbente’ (paper towel) and add salt.  The bubbles in the mineral water make this pastella light and crispy. The batter doesn’t overpower delicate taste of the fiori like a heavy egg and flour batter would.

Pastellafioridizuccacollage

Fiori can also be stuffed with ricotta before frying (remember the ricotta fatta in casa post) or ‘farciti con mozzarella e prosciutto’-stuffed with mozzarella and prosciutto. Gnam, gnam, gnam (English translation…yum, yum, yum).

Lately I have also been making my fiori di zucca into frittelle (little fritters). This is a good way to stretch out your fiori and use broken and torn ones or include some larger pumpkin flowers.  Measurements are not too important here.  I mix some 00 flour and baking powder, then mix in 1 peeled, grated zucchina until it is coated with flour.  Add some fresh torn basil leaves if you have them and some freshly grated parmigiano or asiago and 1 large or 2 small eggs.  Once this is all mixed, add enough water to give it the consistency of pancake batter.  You will need more water than you think!

Fritellecollage

Gently dip the intact fiori in batter and fry in hot oil. When they are finished, chop up the broken ones and add to the rest of the batter.  Drop about 1 tablespoon of batter at a time into the oil to make ‘frittelle.  Place on paper towel and add salt.  They are delicious hot or cold.  For those of you who absolutely, positively can’t manage without measurements….here is a link to a recipe that is fairly similar.

Fritelle

My friend Peppe Zullo in Orsara di Puglia, il ‘cuoco contadino’ www.peppezullo.it picks hundreds of fiori a day in his orto (vegetable garden) when they are in season.  His ristorante serves ‘fiori di zucca al forno, ripiene con caciocavallo’ (baked and stuffed with caciocavallo). Gnam, gnam, gnam!!!

fioreconcaciocavallo

Looking forward to summer when I can enjoy fiori di zucca again! A l’anno prossimo!

 

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Un Giorno a Roma

15 Monday Sep 2014

Posted by Un po' di pepe in Italia, Roma, Travel, Travel tips

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

Bernini, Caravaggio, Colosseo, Elefantino, Fontana di Trevi, Il Vittoriano, Italia, La Barcaccia, Pantheon, Roma, Roma photography, Roma walking tour, Roman Forum, San Luigi dei Francesi, Tazza d'oro

TreviRoma truly is ‘la Città Eterna‘-the eternal city! I usually fly in and out of Roma then take the train to Foggia on my way to Orsara di Puglia. I often have one full day in the city at the beginning or end of my trip. When i’m in Roma for just 1 day, I have a usual ‘itinerary’. I do not actually recommend anyone go to Roma for just one day, especially for the first time. 5 days will do but more is better.  One day only gives you enough time to visit a few sites, so it is mostly an entire day of exploring the city on foot. The sites I choose to visit change a bit each time, but the route is basically the same. I also recommend reading Beat the heat-Surviving Summer in Roma.

I stay with a friend in the Basilica San Paolo area so I take the Metro blue line to the Colosseo stop, exit the station and take a few minutes to absorb the view across the street, which never fails to impress.

The view across the street from the 'Colosseo' metro stop!

The view across the street from the ‘Colosseo’ metro stop!

Then I turn right and walk along Via dei Fori Imperiali.  If you visit Il Colosseo, the ticket includes entry to the Forum, so you can walk through there.  Visiting these 2 awesome sites will take all morning, so they are not usually part of my ‘1 day’ itinerary.

View of the Roman Forum (Foro Romano)

View of the Roman Forum (Foro Romano)

Old meets new at the Foro Romano

Old meets new at the Foro Romano

I walk along Via dei Fori Imperiali all the way to Piazza Venezia and Il Vittoriano, which is the neo-classical monument that looks like a giant wedding cake .

Il Vittoriano

Il Vittoriano

If you want some great views of Roma and are not afraid of heights, take the glass elevator to the rooftop terrace.

'Roma dal cielo' view from the roof of Il Vittoriano

‘Roma dal cielo’ view from the roof of Il Vittoriano

Then I turn right again and cross Piazza Venezia, which can be a bit of a challenge, and walk along Via del Corso. Via del Corso is lined with shops and goes all the way to Piazza del Popolo.

Crossing the street can be challenging! Photo taken by Vito!

Crossing the street can be challenging! Photo taken by Vito!

I turn into one of the side streets on the left and walk to the Pantheon-the domed architectural masterpiece that is absolutely not to be missed! The 2000 year old roof is the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world.*IlPantheonAcross the street I have an incredible granita di caffè at Tazza d’Oro.

Tazza d'Oro, Via degli Orfani 84

Tazza d’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84

Granita di caffe

Granita di caffe

Behind the Pantheon is Santa Maria Sopra Minerva with Bernini’s adorable ‘elefantino’ sculpture in the piazza.  I sometimes like to sit and sketch the pudgy little elephant carrying a 5m Egyptian obelisk on its back.

Bernini's elefantino in Piazza Minerva. Behind the obelisk, you can see the domed roof of the Pantheon.

Bernini’s elefantino in Piazza Minerva. Behind the obelisk, you can see the domed roof of the Pantheon.

The molto fancy ‘Grande Hotel de la Minerve’ across from the church has a roof bar with incredible views. Down a side street – Via del Gesù- is Poggi art supplies www.poggi1825.it , so of course I have to stop there and drool at all the stuff I can’t carry home. I also pop into the little Baroque gem San Luigi dei Francesi, which is the National church of France in Roma. It has 3 incredible Caravaggio paintings-the ‘San Matteo’ cycle, in the Capella Contarelli which you can see for free! No lineups, no online bookings!  I always put a coin in the box and light a candle when I visit a church. If you have more time, go on my Caffè con Caravaggio walking tour.

I walk down some side streets and get back onto Via del Corso going left.  A few blocks down I cross the street and walk to the Fontana di Trevi to toss in my coin. I am very superstitious about this, so I have to do the coin toss or I’m afraid I might not return to Roma!  That would be awful! Fontanaditrevi

Fontana di Trevi

Fontana di Trevi

I look at all the tourists then head to my last stop- Piazza di Spagna. I never miss drinking from the Fontana della Barcaccia.  This is the Baroque fountain at the bottom of the steps that looks like a sinking ship. It was sculpted by both Bernini, Pietro and Gianlorenzo (father and son).  La Barcaccia has the best water ever, especially on a hot day –it comes straight from an ancient acqueduct Acqua Vergine and is always ice cold and refreshing. Bring a water bottle to fill up at I Nasoni di Roma, all over the city.

La Barcaccia, Piazza di Spagna

La Barcaccia, Piazza di Spagna

Mmmm! Acqua freddissima!

Mmmm! Acqua freddissima!

From here I usually walk all the way back to the Colosseo metro stop to take the metro back home to San Paolo and pick up take-out suppli on the way. If I am too tired or have evening plans, I take the metro at Piazza di Spagna (red line) to Stazione Termini then change to the blue line for San Paolo.

Ci vediamo a Roma! Buon viaggio, Cristina

Handy signs at Piazza del Popolo

Handy signs at Piazza del Popolo

*Update:  Entry into the Pantheon was free until july 2023.  Now there is a €5 entry fee for adults.  Tickets can be prebooked online on the official Italian Museums site here or puchased onsite with cash or credit card.  They can also be bought online on site, by scanning a barcodeat the entrance-to avoid the ticket lineup.  Do not buy from other sites, as they are 3rd party sites. Tickets are usually only available 2-3 weeks in advance.  Admission is free the first Sunday of the month, but there are usually long lines, unless you go in January. Since the Pantheon is a church, admission is also free during specific religious services.  Church dress code applies, so shoulders and knees need to be covered.

The Pantheon is open from 0900-1830 every day except January 1, August 15 and December 25.

Check out more posts on things I like to do if I have more than one day in Roma:

  • Trastevere at night
  • Centrale Montemartini
  • Palazzo Massimo
  • Galleria Borghese
  • Visit more Caravaggio paintings for free at Santa Maria del Popolo
  • Go to Mass sung by cloistered nuns at Santa Brigida near Piazza Farnese

©2014 unpodipepe.ca

Piccoli gladiatori! Beware of fierce gladiators in training!

Piccoli gladiatori! Beware of fierce gladiators in training!

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